Stoical is a good word. I think it means accepting what you've got and just getting on with it. I'm that.
Went out at 10pm last night. Looking like one of the M.I.B. Decent suit trousers, best cashmere-like pullover (not shirt or t-shirt). And I thought I looked good (Not D and O). I wandered around Fremont Avenue, live band, lots of people, noise, lights, lasers, millions of fruit machines. Then caught the shuttle up town to the Strip. Took a hundred pictures. Absolutely magic. Watched the volcano erupt at Mirage, watched the immense fountain display at Caesar's and then onto Treasure Island where there was a live free show; involving two pirate ships in battle and one getting sunk! All spectacular. And I felt conspicuous wearing my shades, but, hey, get on with it!
Today my new Explore group of 6 have had an 8 hour journey along route 66 to Red Feather Lodge near the Grand Canyon. And this evening we watched the sun set on the rim. With a thunderstorm brewing it was majestic and magnificent. Photo's attached.
It's occured to me that the stars will be wonderful later, we're in the middle of nowhere. But, hey, I would not be able to see them.
I will contact Icelandair when their offices open tomorrow (on the way to our hike in the Canyon) and will see about re-arranging the rest of my holiday.
Monday, 29 August 2011
Saturday, 27 August 2011
My holiday suddenly gets darker
Venice Beach was not a good experience. But I have managed to escape the noisy, seedy, gloomy hostel of very little sleep and am now in Vegas.
The bus drive (turned out to be a greyhound) over the Mohave desert was not bad. But I struggled to stay awake.
I was so dishevelled as I left the dodgy bus station pulling my new Chinese suitcase behind me on wheels that do not work properly that an American lady offered me money... she said she thought I looked down-and-out.
Yes, you can laugh.
Got in a taxi (my money, not hers) and the $66 a night hotel has 5000 rooms nd a million fruit machines. And I left my glasses in the back of the taxi. And the world is a darker place when you only have precription sunglasses left. I have made enquiries ad do not hold out much hope of getting them back.
I have a day before I start my Explore trip in the Grand Canyon. I am feeling dejected and making enquiries about coming home early..
Mind you, Vegas is also noisy, and seedy at night too and as I walked (wearing best trousers, jumper and sunglasses... I felt clean but very vulnerable.
The bus drive (turned out to be a greyhound) over the Mohave desert was not bad. But I struggled to stay awake.
I was so dishevelled as I left the dodgy bus station pulling my new Chinese suitcase behind me on wheels that do not work properly that an American lady offered me money... she said she thought I looked down-and-out.
Yes, you can laugh.
Got in a taxi (my money, not hers) and the $66 a night hotel has 5000 rooms nd a million fruit machines. And I left my glasses in the back of the taxi. And the world is a darker place when you only have precription sunglasses left. I have made enquiries ad do not hold out much hope of getting them back.
I have a day before I start my Explore trip in the Grand Canyon. I am feeling dejected and making enquiries about coming home early..
Mind you, Vegas is also noisy, and seedy at night too and as I walked (wearing best trousers, jumper and sunglasses... I felt clean but very vulnerable.
Little Blue Cup
I regret to announce the passing of Little Blue Cup.
He has not gone to the Great Dump of Broken Cups in the Sky but has passed onto another life.
After 4 nights with very little sleep I left him in a carrier bag containing food at a bus stop in downtown Venice.
He was a good friend and trusted travelling and working companion and I will miss him.
I hope he finds a new owner, perhaps somone down on his luck and perhaps he will bring hope in this Brave New World.
He has not gone to the Great Dump of Broken Cups in the Sky but has passed onto another life.
After 4 nights with very little sleep I left him in a carrier bag containing food at a bus stop in downtown Venice.
He was a good friend and trusted travelling and working companion and I will miss him.
I hope he finds a new owner, perhaps somone down on his luck and perhaps he will bring hope in this Brave New World.
Thursday, 25 August 2011
Hopeless in Venice
After a 4 hour flight from Tokyo to Beijing; a three hour wait at Beijing for my connecting flight and then a 12 hour non stop flight to Los Angeles and then to cap it all a one hour wait for my shuttle to pick me up...I was weary and my body clock was shot. I'd just had a 36 hour day. I had slept a bit on the jumbo jet... but... I was wide awake at 430am this morning. My motel room was expensive for what I got: $72 and I couldn't even have the satisfaction of a long night's sleep.
And lost in Venice by 11am. Walking the wrong way down Venice Boulevard for well over a mile, heavy bag over my shoulder and me pulling an even heavier case behind me. Of course I eventually caught a bus and got there in the end. But the beach was shrouded by a gloomy mist til well gone 1pm.
Venice beach is not what it used to be. It used to be bohemian, a centre for beatnik and the sixties culture. It is supposed to be arty, zany, bright, youthful, with roller skaters and cyclists and a beach culture.
I expected lots of quaint little cafes. NO. Now it is a mile or more of street vendors selling cheap jewellery, cheap non-art and cheap tacky clothes. And the atmosphere is sordid and nasty and angry. There was even a guy advertising 'kick my ass for $1'. And he was being serious. There are more homeless, more down-and-outs here than there were in Beijing. And I do not feel safe.
It may be called colourful but it has a feeling of hopeless resignation. I'd much rather be in Beijing.
Tomorrow I will escape to see J. Paul Getty and Queen Mary and Naples and I will sort the bus I want to take over the Mojave desert to Las Vegas - now that's one place that will not disappoint me... surely??
And lost in Venice by 11am. Walking the wrong way down Venice Boulevard for well over a mile, heavy bag over my shoulder and me pulling an even heavier case behind me. Of course I eventually caught a bus and got there in the end. But the beach was shrouded by a gloomy mist til well gone 1pm.
Venice beach is not what it used to be. It used to be bohemian, a centre for beatnik and the sixties culture. It is supposed to be arty, zany, bright, youthful, with roller skaters and cyclists and a beach culture.
I expected lots of quaint little cafes. NO. Now it is a mile or more of street vendors selling cheap jewellery, cheap non-art and cheap tacky clothes. And the atmosphere is sordid and nasty and angry. There was even a guy advertising 'kick my ass for $1'. And he was being serious. There are more homeless, more down-and-outs here than there were in Beijing. And I do not feel safe.
It may be called colourful but it has a feeling of hopeless resignation. I'd much rather be in Beijing.
Tomorrow I will escape to see J. Paul Getty and Queen Mary and Naples and I will sort the bus I want to take over the Mojave desert to Las Vegas - now that's one place that will not disappoint me... surely??
Monday, 22 August 2011
Ｔｏｋｙｏ
Ｉ ｌｏｖｅ ｔｈｅ ｗａｙ ｔｈｅ Ｊａｐａｎｅｓｅ ｐｅｏｐｌｅ ｂｏｗ ｔｏ ｅａｃｈ ｏｔｈｅｒ． Ａｎｄ ｔｈｅｙ ａｌｌ ｄｏ ｉｔ ｕｐｏｎ ａ ｍｅｅｔｉｎｇ／ｉｎｔｒｏｄｕｃｔｉｏｎ － ｙｏｕｎｇ ａｎｄ ｏｌｄ． Ｉｔ‘ｓ ｎｏｔ a ｍｅｒｅ ｎｏｄ ｏｆ ｔｈｅ ｈｅａｄ，ｎｏｒ a ｄｏｕｂｌｅｄ ｏｖｅｒ ｋｏｗ－ｔｏｗ ｂｕｔ ｉｔ‘ｓ a ｌｏｗｅｒｉｎｇ ｏｆ ｔｈｅ ｈｅａｄ ｔｈａｔ ｆｏｒ ｍｅ ｓａｙｓ ｒｅｓｐｅｃｔ ａｎｄ ｄｅｆｅｒｅｎｃｅ． Ｏｆｆｅｒ ｙｏｕｒ ｓｅａｔ ｏｎ ｔｈｅ ｔｒａｉｎ ａｎｄ ｙｏｕ
ｅｘｃｈａｎｇｅ ｂｏｗｓ， ｂｕｙ ｓｏｍｅｔｈｉｎｇ ｉｎ ｔｈｅ ｓｈｏｐ ａｎｄ ｙｏｕ ｅｘｃｈａｎｇｅ ｂｏｗｓ． Ｉｔ‘ｓ ｃｏｏｌ． Ａｎｄ I ａｍ ｂｅｃｏｍｉｎｇ ｑｕｉｔｅ ａｄｅｐｔ ａｔ ｉｔ． Ａｎｄ ｈｏｗ ｍａｎｙ ｔｈａｎｋｙｏｕ‘ｓ ｈａｖｅ Ｉ ｌｅａｒｎｅｄ？ Ａｒｉｇａｔｏ ｗｏｒｋｓ ｈｅｒｅ， ａｎｄ Ｉ ｋｎｏｗ ｍｙ ｓａｙｏｎａｒａ‘ｓ ａｎｄ
ｋｏｎｎｉｃｈａｗａ‘ｓ．
Ｉ‘ｖｅ ｈａｄ ｓｕｃｈｉ ｆｏｒ ｔｈｅ ｌａｓｔ ８ ｅｖｅｎｉｎｇｓ． Ｂｕｔ ｂｅｉｎｇ ｃａｒｅｆｕｌ ｗｉｔｈ ｔｈｅ ｄｏｓｈ
ｉｔ‘ｓ ｏｎｌｙ ｂｅｅｎ ｆｒｏｍ ｔｈｅ ｌｏｃａｌ ｓｕｐｅｒｍａｒｋｅｔ． Ｂｕｔ Ｉ ｌｏｖｅ ｉｔ ａｎｄ ｗｏｕｌｄ ｓｏ
ｅｎｊｏｙ a ｐｒｏｐｅｒ ｒｅｓｔａｕｒａｎｔ ｍｅａｌ， ｂｕｔ Ｉ ｗｏｕｌｄｎ‘ｔ ｄｏ ｉｔ ａｌｏｎｅ ｎｏｒ ｃａｎ Ｉ
ｊｕｓｔｉｆｙ ｐａｙｉｎｇ ｔｈｅ ３０００Ｙ ｉｔ ｗｏｕｌｄ ｃｏｓｔ ｍｅ． Ｔｈｅｙ‘ｖｅ ａｌｓｏ ｇｏｔ a ｃａｎ ｏｆ
ＳＴＲＯＮＧ ｈｅｒｅ，ｉｔ‘ｓ ｖｏｄｋａ ａｎｄ ｌｅｍｏｎａｄｅ．
Ｉ‘ｖｅ ｗａｌｋｅｄ ａｒｏｕｎｄ （ａｎｄ ｇｏｔ ｌｏｓｔ） ａｎｄ ｍｅｔｒｏ‘ｄ ａｒｏｕｎｄ Ｔｏｋｙｏ （ａｎｄ ｃａｕｇｈｔ ｔｈｅ ｗｒｏｎｇ ｔｒａｉｎ） Ｂｅｅｎ ｕｐ a ｓｋｙｓｃｒａｐｅｒ， ｏｎ a ｍｏｎｏｒａｉｌ， ｈａｖｅ ｓｅｅｎ a
ｈｕｎｄｒｅｄ ｐａｒｋｓ， ｓｅｅｎ a ｍｉｌｌｉｏｎ ｍｏｒｅ ｔｅｍｐｌｅｓ ａｎｄ ａ ｃｏｕｐｌｅ ｏｆ ｍｕｓｅｕｍｓ．
Ａｎｄ Ｉ‘ｍ ｔｉｒｅｄ．Ａｎｄ ｉｔ‘ｓ ｔｉｍｅ ｔｏ ｓａｙ ｓａｙｏｎａｒａ ｔｏ ｔｈｅ Ｆａｒ Ｅａｓｔ．
Ｍｙ ｎｅｗ ｃａｓｅ ｉｓ ｂｕｒｓｔｉｎｇ． Ｉ ｈａｖｅ a ｗｈｏｌｅ ｌａｙｅｒ ｏｆ ｎｉｃ－ｎａｃ ｐｒｅｓｅｎｔｓ． Ａｎｄ Ｉ ｈａｖｅ １５００ ｐｌｕｓ ｐｈｏｔｏｓ．
Ａｎｄ ｐｅｏｐｌｅ．
Ｔｈｅｒｅ‘ｓ a ｌａｄｙ ｉｎ ｔｈｉｓ ｈｏｓｔｅｌ ｗｈｏ ｉｓ ｗｅｌｌ ｉｎｔｏ ｓｐｅｎｄｉｎｇ ａ ｙｅａｒ ｔｒａｖｅｌｌｉｎｇ ｔｈｅ ｗｏｒｌｄ ｗｉｔｈ ｈｅｒ ８ ｙｅａｒ ｏｌｄ ｓｏｎ． Ｊｕｓｔ ｔｈｅ ｔｗｏ ｏｆ ｔｈｅｍ． Ｓｃｈｏｏｌ ｉｓ ｏｎ ｔｈｅ Ｉ Ｐａｄ ｉｎ ｔｈｅ ｅｖｅｎｉｎｇ． Ｈｅ ｉｓ ｖｅｒｙ ｂｒｉｇｈｔ． Ａｎｄ ｍｅｅｔｉｎｇ ｐｅｏｐｌｅ ｌｉｋｅ ｔｈｉｓ ｉｓ a ｊｏｙ． Ｂｕｔ ｅｖｅｎ ｔｈｏｕｇｈ Ｉ ａｍ ｈａｖｉｎｇ ｍｙ ｏｗｎ ｌｉｔｔｌｅ ａｄｖｅｎｔｕｒｅ， ｉｔ ｃａｎｎｏｔ
ｃｏｍｐｅｔｅ － Ｉ‘ｖｅ ｂｅｅｎ ｇｏｎｅ ｎｅａｒｌｙ ６ ｗｅｅｋｓ － ｔｈｅｒｅ‘ｓ ａｎｏｔｈｅｒ ｇｕｙ ｈｅｒｅ
ｗｈｏ ｈａｓ ｂｅｅｎ ａｗａｙ ９ ｍｏｎｔｈｓ． Ｉ‘ｍ ａ ｎｏｖｉｃｅ．
Ｌｏｎｇ ｄａｙ ｏｆ ｔｒａｖｅｌｌｉｎｇ ｔｏｍｏｒｒｏｗ． Ａｎｄ Ｉ ｓｔｉｌｌ ｈａｖｅｎｔ ｇｏｔ ｍｙ ｈｅａｄ ａｒｏｕｎｄ
ｉｔ． Ｉ ｗｉｌｌ ｌｅａｖｅ ａｔ ａｂｏｕｔ １１３０ａｍ ｔｏ ｃａｔｃｈ ｔｈｅ １５１５ ｆｌｉｇｈｔ ｔｏ Ｂｅｉｊｉｎｇ， ｔｈｅｎ ｔｏ ｇｅｔ ｔｈｅ ｆｌｉｇｈｔ ｔｏ ＬＡＸ ｔｈａｔ ｌａｎｄｓ ａｔ １８１５ｐｍ． Ｗｅｉｒｄ． Ａｌｌ Ｉ ｋｎｏｗ ｉｓ Ｉ ａｍ ｇｏｎｎａ ｂｅ ｋｎａｃｋｅｒｅｄ． Ｇｅｔｔｉｎｇ ｆｅｄ ｔｗｉｃｅ ｔｈｏｕｇｈ．
ｅｘｃｈａｎｇｅ ｂｏｗｓ， ｂｕｙ ｓｏｍｅｔｈｉｎｇ ｉｎ ｔｈｅ ｓｈｏｐ ａｎｄ ｙｏｕ ｅｘｃｈａｎｇｅ ｂｏｗｓ． Ｉｔ‘ｓ ｃｏｏｌ． Ａｎｄ I ａｍ ｂｅｃｏｍｉｎｇ ｑｕｉｔｅ ａｄｅｐｔ ａｔ ｉｔ． Ａｎｄ ｈｏｗ ｍａｎｙ ｔｈａｎｋｙｏｕ‘ｓ ｈａｖｅ Ｉ ｌｅａｒｎｅｄ？ Ａｒｉｇａｔｏ ｗｏｒｋｓ ｈｅｒｅ， ａｎｄ Ｉ ｋｎｏｗ ｍｙ ｓａｙｏｎａｒａ‘ｓ ａｎｄ
ｋｏｎｎｉｃｈａｗａ‘ｓ．
Ｉ‘ｖｅ ｈａｄ ｓｕｃｈｉ ｆｏｒ ｔｈｅ ｌａｓｔ ８ ｅｖｅｎｉｎｇｓ． Ｂｕｔ ｂｅｉｎｇ ｃａｒｅｆｕｌ ｗｉｔｈ ｔｈｅ ｄｏｓｈ
ｉｔ‘ｓ ｏｎｌｙ ｂｅｅｎ ｆｒｏｍ ｔｈｅ ｌｏｃａｌ ｓｕｐｅｒｍａｒｋｅｔ． Ｂｕｔ Ｉ ｌｏｖｅ ｉｔ ａｎｄ ｗｏｕｌｄ ｓｏ
ｅｎｊｏｙ a ｐｒｏｐｅｒ ｒｅｓｔａｕｒａｎｔ ｍｅａｌ， ｂｕｔ Ｉ ｗｏｕｌｄｎ‘ｔ ｄｏ ｉｔ ａｌｏｎｅ ｎｏｒ ｃａｎ Ｉ
ｊｕｓｔｉｆｙ ｐａｙｉｎｇ ｔｈｅ ３０００Ｙ ｉｔ ｗｏｕｌｄ ｃｏｓｔ ｍｅ． Ｔｈｅｙ‘ｖｅ ａｌｓｏ ｇｏｔ a ｃａｎ ｏｆ
ＳＴＲＯＮＧ ｈｅｒｅ，ｉｔ‘ｓ ｖｏｄｋａ ａｎｄ ｌｅｍｏｎａｄｅ．
Ｉ‘ｖｅ ｗａｌｋｅｄ ａｒｏｕｎｄ （ａｎｄ ｇｏｔ ｌｏｓｔ） ａｎｄ ｍｅｔｒｏ‘ｄ ａｒｏｕｎｄ Ｔｏｋｙｏ （ａｎｄ ｃａｕｇｈｔ ｔｈｅ ｗｒｏｎｇ ｔｒａｉｎ） Ｂｅｅｎ ｕｐ a ｓｋｙｓｃｒａｐｅｒ， ｏｎ a ｍｏｎｏｒａｉｌ， ｈａｖｅ ｓｅｅｎ a
ｈｕｎｄｒｅｄ ｐａｒｋｓ， ｓｅｅｎ a ｍｉｌｌｉｏｎ ｍｏｒｅ ｔｅｍｐｌｅｓ ａｎｄ ａ ｃｏｕｐｌｅ ｏｆ ｍｕｓｅｕｍｓ．
Ａｎｄ Ｉ‘ｍ ｔｉｒｅｄ．Ａｎｄ ｉｔ‘ｓ ｔｉｍｅ ｔｏ ｓａｙ ｓａｙｏｎａｒａ ｔｏ ｔｈｅ Ｆａｒ Ｅａｓｔ．
Ｍｙ ｎｅｗ ｃａｓｅ ｉｓ ｂｕｒｓｔｉｎｇ． Ｉ ｈａｖｅ a ｗｈｏｌｅ ｌａｙｅｒ ｏｆ ｎｉｃ－ｎａｃ ｐｒｅｓｅｎｔｓ． Ａｎｄ Ｉ ｈａｖｅ １５００ ｐｌｕｓ ｐｈｏｔｏｓ．
Ａｎｄ ｐｅｏｐｌｅ．
Ｔｈｅｒｅ‘ｓ a ｌａｄｙ ｉｎ ｔｈｉｓ ｈｏｓｔｅｌ ｗｈｏ ｉｓ ｗｅｌｌ ｉｎｔｏ ｓｐｅｎｄｉｎｇ ａ ｙｅａｒ ｔｒａｖｅｌｌｉｎｇ ｔｈｅ ｗｏｒｌｄ ｗｉｔｈ ｈｅｒ ８ ｙｅａｒ ｏｌｄ ｓｏｎ． Ｊｕｓｔ ｔｈｅ ｔｗｏ ｏｆ ｔｈｅｍ． Ｓｃｈｏｏｌ ｉｓ ｏｎ ｔｈｅ Ｉ Ｐａｄ ｉｎ ｔｈｅ ｅｖｅｎｉｎｇ． Ｈｅ ｉｓ ｖｅｒｙ ｂｒｉｇｈｔ． Ａｎｄ ｍｅｅｔｉｎｇ ｐｅｏｐｌｅ ｌｉｋｅ ｔｈｉｓ ｉｓ a ｊｏｙ． Ｂｕｔ ｅｖｅｎ ｔｈｏｕｇｈ Ｉ ａｍ ｈａｖｉｎｇ ｍｙ ｏｗｎ ｌｉｔｔｌｅ ａｄｖｅｎｔｕｒｅ， ｉｔ ｃａｎｎｏｔ
ｃｏｍｐｅｔｅ － Ｉ‘ｖｅ ｂｅｅｎ ｇｏｎｅ ｎｅａｒｌｙ ６ ｗｅｅｋｓ － ｔｈｅｒｅ‘ｓ ａｎｏｔｈｅｒ ｇｕｙ ｈｅｒｅ
ｗｈｏ ｈａｓ ｂｅｅｎ ａｗａｙ ９ ｍｏｎｔｈｓ． Ｉ‘ｍ ａ ｎｏｖｉｃｅ．
Ｌｏｎｇ ｄａｙ ｏｆ ｔｒａｖｅｌｌｉｎｇ ｔｏｍｏｒｒｏｗ． Ａｎｄ Ｉ ｓｔｉｌｌ ｈａｖｅｎｔ ｇｏｔ ｍｙ ｈｅａｄ ａｒｏｕｎｄ
ｉｔ． Ｉ ｗｉｌｌ ｌｅａｖｅ ａｔ ａｂｏｕｔ １１３０ａｍ ｔｏ ｃａｔｃｈ ｔｈｅ １５１５ ｆｌｉｇｈｔ ｔｏ Ｂｅｉｊｉｎｇ， ｔｈｅｎ ｔｏ ｇｅｔ ｔｈｅ ｆｌｉｇｈｔ ｔｏ ＬＡＸ ｔｈａｔ ｌａｎｄｓ ａｔ １８１５ｐｍ． Ｗｅｉｒｄ． Ａｌｌ Ｉ ｋｎｏｗ ｉｓ Ｉ ａｍ ｇｏｎｎａ ｂｅ ｋｎａｃｋｅｒｅｄ． Ｇｅｔｔｉｎｇ ｆｅｄ ｔｗｉｃｅ ｔｈｏｕｇｈ．
Saturday, 20 August 2011
Kyoto
Three days in Kyoto is not enough. There are 1600 temples and 400 shrines to see - I havent quite done them all.... but the few I have been to have been super... and very orange. They are literally everywhere, walk down a street and there are temples that have been converted to homes. I have wandered around, and got myself lost (of course) Hidden away behind the street are giant temple complexes. It must have been amazing 200 years ago, it is wonderful.
Yesterday I went to the Imperial Palace (had to get a special invite), it was so unlike the Beijing experience. In Beijing there were a million people in the Forbidden City, in Kyoto there were 40 of us on a personal English guided tour. And it cost nothing. The Imperial Palace site and surrounding parkland are not regarded as a favourite tourist attraction here.
My guest house, IchiEnSue is just like being a guest in someones home; it is sweet. Its situated in the gion district and there are lots of ladies wearing beautiful kimonos around. And Ive seen two geisha girls (in the street, that is).
Now I am leaving tomorrow I have just about cracked the transport; the bus system (400Y for a day pass 2.70) is excellent. The metro is complicated, like the rail, different sections are owned by different companies.
This evening 8 of us went out for a beer. We ended up sitting on the bank of the river with a bottle looking at the lights and talking, near to us a Japanese boy band set up and sung some Beatles songs... so surreal. I just had to go over to them when they were finished and ask why the Beatles..
I did all my washing last night. All my socks, underwear, shirts in a local launderette. Took my carrier bag full and a book with me. 800Y (5.00) for 50 minutes. Was easy to operate, the instructions were in English, chucked the whole lot in, book and all. Oops!
Yesterday I went to the Imperial Palace (had to get a special invite), it was so unlike the Beijing experience. In Beijing there were a million people in the Forbidden City, in Kyoto there were 40 of us on a personal English guided tour. And it cost nothing. The Imperial Palace site and surrounding parkland are not regarded as a favourite tourist attraction here.
My guest house, IchiEnSue is just like being a guest in someones home; it is sweet. Its situated in the gion district and there are lots of ladies wearing beautiful kimonos around. And Ive seen two geisha girls (in the street, that is).
Now I am leaving tomorrow I have just about cracked the transport; the bus system (400Y for a day pass 2.70) is excellent. The metro is complicated, like the rail, different sections are owned by different companies.
This evening 8 of us went out for a beer. We ended up sitting on the bank of the river with a bottle looking at the lights and talking, near to us a Japanese boy band set up and sung some Beatles songs... so surreal. I just had to go over to them when they were finished and ask why the Beatles..
I did all my washing last night. All my socks, underwear, shirts in a local launderette. Took my carrier bag full and a book with me. 800Y (5.00) for 50 minutes. Was easy to operate, the instructions were in English, chucked the whole lot in, book and all. Oops!
Wednesday, 17 August 2011
Japanese Bullet Train
The Japanese bullet train. Conjures up thoughts of impressive timekeeping, and modern technology at it`s zenith. The Best train in the world. Or so they say.
But what they do not say is that it has 16 carriages. 13 for first class and pre-reserved seats...and 3 cattle trucks.
I arrived in Shimonseki this morning and was given the choice of a 12 hours journey to Kyoto and 5 changes on local trains for 7000K or 3 hours with no changes on the Shinkasen for 13980Y.
I bit for the bullet.
It looked magnificent. Like Concorde on rails. On the outside. But nothing special on the inside where I was. The first 13 carriages were two thirds full.
Unreserved were carriages 1,2,3 at the back and they were packed. I had to stand all the way.
I need a good nights sleep.
Last night on the Pukwan ferry was uncomfortable. There was no entertainment like the Helsinki ferry, no bars, no shops. The boat was a lot smaller. On deck was very, very dark and eerie, like the darkness was trying to suck you overboard. I was in a large berth with no furniture and 16 guys very formally sleeping on mats (Japanese style) on the floor and the boat swaying, yawing, and dipping. Awful. I listened to my mp3 for 3 hours lying down trying to sleep.
The night before at City House in noisy Busan a group of 10 of us played drinking games with the local firewater til 230am. Was such fun. Lovely people. But, oh my head the next morning. Did I say never again before??
And now in Kyoto. So colourful and exciting. Have seen young ladies walking down the street in kimonos. Have had my first delicious suchi. Nothing like the Tesco version, this was good! Have seen a Zen monastery already, beautiful.
But it got dark here before 7pm... good job I chose the Shinkasen this morning... arriving in Kyoto in the dark would have been so hard.
But what they do not say is that it has 16 carriages. 13 for first class and pre-reserved seats...and 3 cattle trucks.
I arrived in Shimonseki this morning and was given the choice of a 12 hours journey to Kyoto and 5 changes on local trains for 7000K or 3 hours with no changes on the Shinkasen for 13980Y.
I bit for the bullet.
It looked magnificent. Like Concorde on rails. On the outside. But nothing special on the inside where I was. The first 13 carriages were two thirds full.
Unreserved were carriages 1,2,3 at the back and they were packed. I had to stand all the way.
I need a good nights sleep.
Last night on the Pukwan ferry was uncomfortable. There was no entertainment like the Helsinki ferry, no bars, no shops. The boat was a lot smaller. On deck was very, very dark and eerie, like the darkness was trying to suck you overboard. I was in a large berth with no furniture and 16 guys very formally sleeping on mats (Japanese style) on the floor and the boat swaying, yawing, and dipping. Awful. I listened to my mp3 for 3 hours lying down trying to sleep.
The night before at City House in noisy Busan a group of 10 of us played drinking games with the local firewater til 230am. Was such fun. Lovely people. But, oh my head the next morning. Did I say never again before??
And now in Kyoto. So colourful and exciting. Have seen young ladies walking down the street in kimonos. Have had my first delicious suchi. Nothing like the Tesco version, this was good! Have seen a Zen monastery already, beautiful.
But it got dark here before 7pm... good job I chose the Shinkasen this morning... arriving in Kyoto in the dark would have been so hard.
Monday, 15 August 2011
Have slept with 5 American girls in two days
Well, I didn't know Haeundae was the Ayia Napa of Korea. I knew my hotel was near a beach... but resort? The everywhere-music did not stop til gone 5am again this morning; its mid-season and Haeundae throngs with Korean 20somethings away for a few days to get laid and wasted. Oops!! But where does that leave me?
I'm in a mixed 6-bed dorm. Friday was ok. But the guesthouse was full on Sat and Sun and they put 5 American young ladies in with me. Oh dear.
Yeah right!! I felt very uncomfortable and I could hear mutterings and see glances coming my way. Ho hum!
I did what I was doing on the computer with the females gossipping together in the large lounge behind me, I just wandered over - didn't introduce myself or say a big hi! I'm your roomy or anything naff... just joined in the conversation. An hour later we had finished a bottle of vodka (did I say never again?) and they went out clubbing promising to be like mice when they got in. It was really no prob.. a bit uncomfortable, a bit embarassing and quite funny, but no prob. Of course, I was the perfect English gentleman.
They are gone now. They are all English teachers working in Seoul away for a few days. And, so, I have guys with me again - bet they snore!!!
Went to the Korean version of the great wall yesterday, Geumjeonsanseong Fortress, climbed to 1500' (phew! so hot!) and saw the most amazing view of Busan.
Today I went on a boat trip around the bay overlooking Busan.
I have been to the port and confirmed my berth to Japan tomorrow. Ah so!
That probably makes me half way on my journey now, so in a way I feel that I am heading home. Once in Japan I will have travelled 10,000K.
I've still got free internet so I'll prob put some photos on, I took a wonderful nightime one half an hour ago from Dongbaek Park.
I'm in a mixed 6-bed dorm. Friday was ok. But the guesthouse was full on Sat and Sun and they put 5 American young ladies in with me. Oh dear.
Yeah right!! I felt very uncomfortable and I could hear mutterings and see glances coming my way. Ho hum!
I did what I was doing on the computer with the females gossipping together in the large lounge behind me, I just wandered over - didn't introduce myself or say a big hi! I'm your roomy or anything naff... just joined in the conversation. An hour later we had finished a bottle of vodka (did I say never again?) and they went out clubbing promising to be like mice when they got in. It was really no prob.. a bit uncomfortable, a bit embarassing and quite funny, but no prob. Of course, I was the perfect English gentleman.
They are gone now. They are all English teachers working in Seoul away for a few days. And, so, I have guys with me again - bet they snore!!!
Went to the Korean version of the great wall yesterday, Geumjeonsanseong Fortress, climbed to 1500' (phew! so hot!) and saw the most amazing view of Busan.
Today I went on a boat trip around the bay overlooking Busan.
I have been to the port and confirmed my berth to Japan tomorrow. Ah so!
That probably makes me half way on my journey now, so in a way I feel that I am heading home. Once in Japan I will have travelled 10,000K.
I've still got free internet so I'll prob put some photos on, I took a wonderful nightime one half an hour ago from Dongbaek Park.
Saturday, 13 August 2011
Korea smells
There is a definite smell occassionally. It was the same in Seoul. You get a whiff walking down the street; it's a similar smell you get if theyve been spraying pig manure on the fields; or something has gone off in the fridge. Not nice. A metallic, sharp, fetid pong. It's probably a mixture of the heat, it's over 30degrees at 9am, the garbage, or the street food that is everywhere. Or perhaps it's me.
I still find it surprising that I'm the only European around. Have today had three long journeys on the Metro; I changed twice on the way to Beomulsa temple, then went to the ferry terminal and then back to Haeundae. Saw no other Europeans at all.
Beomulsa temple today. Serene is the only word. I sat and listened to buddhist chanting for an hour or so. Very calm. Very beautiful.
Korean public transport. Cannot fault it. all the buses, metro and trains are air con'd. I bought an all day pass for 2.50... a single bus or metro ride costs only 70p for anywhere in Busan.
Snacks. Want to get my appetite back. Mmm cheese and pickle on toast!!
Now... I don't expect branston so I'll happily settle for tomato and cheese on toast.
Bread: could only get all plastic and long life rubbery version (Korean). Cheese: Koreans do not eat cheese. Only goats cheese; managed to get some dairlyea slices from the very back of the fridge. Tomatoes: No real ripe, red tomatoes, had to settle for giant green-just-about-to-go-red one. Cheese and tomato on toast.... but it was delicious!! (Microwaved... there's no grill)
And back to tea. I WANT TEA!!! Bought some lemon tea bags today in giant supermarket... mmm nice.
Not PG but nice. Not. They turned out to be wheat tea. Tastes just like shredded wheat. Ug!
I still find it surprising that I'm the only European around. Have today had three long journeys on the Metro; I changed twice on the way to Beomulsa temple, then went to the ferry terminal and then back to Haeundae. Saw no other Europeans at all.
Beomulsa temple today. Serene is the only word. I sat and listened to buddhist chanting for an hour or so. Very calm. Very beautiful.
Korean public transport. Cannot fault it. all the buses, metro and trains are air con'd. I bought an all day pass for 2.50... a single bus or metro ride costs only 70p for anywhere in Busan.
Snacks. Want to get my appetite back. Mmm cheese and pickle on toast!!
Now... I don't expect branston so I'll happily settle for tomato and cheese on toast.
Bread: could only get all plastic and long life rubbery version (Korean). Cheese: Koreans do not eat cheese. Only goats cheese; managed to get some dairlyea slices from the very back of the fridge. Tomatoes: No real ripe, red tomatoes, had to settle for giant green-just-about-to-go-red one. Cheese and tomato on toast.... but it was delicious!! (Microwaved... there's no grill)
And back to tea. I WANT TEA!!! Bought some lemon tea bags today in giant supermarket... mmm nice.
Not PG but nice. Not. They turned out to be wheat tea. Tastes just like shredded wheat. Ug!
Thursday, 11 August 2011
Seoul 11/8
There are big differences between Seoul people and Beijing people.
They are much more polite, all deep nods and smiles. Twice on the bus this afternoon on the way back to City Guest House people gestured and asked if I wanted to sit down. So polite. Give your seat to the elderley. I just said Gamsa Hamnida and shook my head. (Yet another thankyou learned)
They don't fight for seats on the underground either; in Beijing it was all an arms and elbows battle as soon as the doors opened, here it's wait til everybody gets off and patiently and gently get on. Nice.
Toilets. I'm English. Toilets are important. Toilets in Beijing are scarce and nasty. Here in Seoul they are everywhere (especially in museums) and incredibly clean. No charge either.
I am reminded how foreign this all is. And how foreign I am. Went into Holly's Cafe (it's a chain) this afternoon for tea. The young lady waitress looked blank at me. Tea.. Chay.. Chai.. Still blank. Cappacino? Americano? No... chai, tea, chay... we spent a couple of minutes stuttering, nodding, smiling and looking blankly at each other until I saw a menu and had to point. All they had was roibos. Even in the supermarkets all I can get is green, jasmine or honey. Oh for a packet of PG!!
Changing my plans tomorrow. Am bottling the templestay and going straight to Busan. Dont fancy 5am start and have the rumbleguts.. (am on stoppers) Ooh er!!!
They are much more polite, all deep nods and smiles. Twice on the bus this afternoon on the way back to City Guest House people gestured and asked if I wanted to sit down. So polite. Give your seat to the elderley. I just said Gamsa Hamnida and shook my head. (Yet another thankyou learned)
They don't fight for seats on the underground either; in Beijing it was all an arms and elbows battle as soon as the doors opened, here it's wait til everybody gets off and patiently and gently get on. Nice.
Toilets. I'm English. Toilets are important. Toilets in Beijing are scarce and nasty. Here in Seoul they are everywhere (especially in museums) and incredibly clean. No charge either.
I am reminded how foreign this all is. And how foreign I am. Went into Holly's Cafe (it's a chain) this afternoon for tea. The young lady waitress looked blank at me. Tea.. Chay.. Chai.. Still blank. Cappacino? Americano? No... chai, tea, chay... we spent a couple of minutes stuttering, nodding, smiling and looking blankly at each other until I saw a menu and had to point. All they had was roibos. Even in the supermarkets all I can get is green, jasmine or honey. Oh for a packet of PG!!
Changing my plans tomorrow. Am bottling the templestay and going straight to Busan. Dont fancy 5am start and have the rumbleguts.. (am on stoppers) Ooh er!!!
Monday, 8 August 2011
Beijing - 8/8/11
What an amazing three days in Beijing. Is the biggest, most impressive city I have ever seen, and so many people!! We managed to fit tons of stuff in... went to a kung fu exhibition in a theatre on Friday, then last night went to see an acrobatics and juggling show. Absolutely amazing: started with a guy standing on top of eight stacked wooden chairs and doing one hand handstands; almost touching the ceiling of the theatre. Extraordinary.
Went in to the Forbidden City. Four hours of walking around in 90+ heat, and totally amazed by the Emperors Garden. Awesome. Then went on to Tangshan Park where I could view the whole of the FC and big groups of random people were singing random opera acapella... imagine that happening in Hyde Park... Then got totally lost. Thats not unusual for me though, happened three times to me whilst I was in Beijing!! So complicated trying to read street names. Exhausting.
Went to see the Birds Nest. Went and walked a couple of k along the great wall.. which was exactly as I had expected.. but what I did not expect was the chair lift up to it and the toboggan ride down. Truly!
Had a chinese food banquet meal with the whole group (wonderful mix of 9 foreigners) and had two very dodgy meals in local restaurants. And survived.
So, here I am now in Seoul. And have free computer in City Guest House. Have just discovered I have taken 700 photos so far... oops!! It's 1045pm; got dark at 8pm and that is noon with you. Am around the other side of the world. Now there's a thing.
Went in to the Forbidden City. Four hours of walking around in 90+ heat, and totally amazed by the Emperors Garden. Awesome. Then went on to Tangshan Park where I could view the whole of the FC and big groups of random people were singing random opera acapella... imagine that happening in Hyde Park... Then got totally lost. Thats not unusual for me though, happened three times to me whilst I was in Beijing!! So complicated trying to read street names. Exhausting.
Went to see the Birds Nest. Went and walked a couple of k along the great wall.. which was exactly as I had expected.. but what I did not expect was the chair lift up to it and the toboggan ride down. Truly!
Had a chinese food banquet meal with the whole group (wonderful mix of 9 foreigners) and had two very dodgy meals in local restaurants. And survived.
So, here I am now in Seoul. And have free computer in City Guest House. Have just discovered I have taken 700 photos so far... oops!! It's 1045pm; got dark at 8pm and that is noon with you. Am around the other side of the world. Now there's a thing.
Saturday, 6 August 2011
Bogeys and a culture shock - 4/8/11
We went through border control late last night; which wasn't as bad as the Russian/Mongolian experience... this time it only took 4 hours. But. The railway track in China is narrower than the track in Mongolia. So the whole train, each of the 10 carriages had to be individually pneumatically jacked up (with us in it) 10 feet in the air to have the bogeys changed. Fascinating stuff. At 12.30 in the morning.
Beijing is such a culture shock. I have not known anything like it. So modern, Gucci, Luis Verron, Burberry shops, so hectic, everywhere so randomly noisy, incredible tall hotels with pagodas on the top - and a haze hanging in the air that blocks out most of the sun. I went wandering this afternoon, as I do. Alone. As I do. Got totally lost, as I do. Came across a whole street of roadside hot food vendors... still wriggling mini octopus on kebab sticks, crayfish, lots of dodgy looking meat kebabs and lots of dodgy looking sweeet things. The smell was overpowering, but wonderful. Watched a street brawl. Eventually came out at the Forbidden City. Just wow!! Then came out in Tianamen Square underneath the iconic Chairman Mao picture. Amazing! Seemed like a million peope just milling about. And two absolutely enormous LCD screens on the opposite side showing random pictures including desert island and palm trees. Oh my! What?
Went to see a Kung Fu exhibition this evening. And then three of us had dinner down a hutong. Choose your own meat, vegetables and noodles and it's cooked in front of you and served in a plastic bag in a bowl. Tasted just like a chinese curry. And no forks just chopsticks. Culture shock!!!
Going to the Great Wall tomorrow ... OMG!!!
---
Note from Mike - Blogger.com is not allowed in China (the infamous firewall) - so have pasted this on Phileas's behalf!!
Beijing is such a culture shock. I have not known anything like it. So modern, Gucci, Luis Verron, Burberry shops, so hectic, everywhere so randomly noisy, incredible tall hotels with pagodas on the top - and a haze hanging in the air that blocks out most of the sun. I went wandering this afternoon, as I do. Alone. As I do. Got totally lost, as I do. Came across a whole street of roadside hot food vendors... still wriggling mini octopus on kebab sticks, crayfish, lots of dodgy looking meat kebabs and lots of dodgy looking sweeet things. The smell was overpowering, but wonderful. Watched a street brawl. Eventually came out at the Forbidden City. Just wow!! Then came out in Tianamen Square underneath the iconic Chairman Mao picture. Amazing! Seemed like a million peope just milling about. And two absolutely enormous LCD screens on the opposite side showing random pictures including desert island and palm trees. Oh my! What?
Went to see a Kung Fu exhibition this evening. And then three of us had dinner down a hutong. Choose your own meat, vegetables and noodles and it's cooked in front of you and served in a plastic bag in a bowl. Tasted just like a chinese curry. And no forks just chopsticks. Culture shock!!!
Going to the Great Wall tomorrow ... OMG!!!
---
Note from Mike - Blogger.com is not allowed in China (the infamous firewall) - so have pasted this on Phileas's behalf!!
Monday, 1 August 2011
Ulanbatoor
What a contrast!!
When we started our 6000k train journey from Moscow for the first two days all we could see out of the carriage window was trees - when we awoke this morning in Northern Mongolia all we could see was grass plains and mountains.. over the past few days the view has changed drastically. Now there are no trees at all.
Am now in Ulanbatoor in Mongolia.
The town centre is dominated by Sukhbatoor Square and the very impressive parliament building, the giant mayor's office and the Blue Sky wind-sail-shape skyscraper (that is empty apparently). They all look magnificent.
This morning we visited two traditional homes in the yellow-rocks ger district no more than half a mile from the town centre. They had no running water (a communal well only) no sewage (just toilet pits) yet the folks were so friendly and so proud of their Mongolia and their Ghengis Khan heritage.
We all went gift shopping in the National Department Store and then I walked back alone through the centre to the San Hotel alone. No probs. Dodgy people and pickpockets everywhere we are warned. And crossing the street is easy, just go!! jaywalk amongst the dust, the noise and the manic traffic. No probs.
We are sleeping overnight tomorrow in a ger tent.and going to a culture show.. and then back (erk!) onto the train to Beijing.
Would love Heinz baked beans on toast with brown sauce!!! or pork pie, pickle and chips!! Mmmmmmmmm
When we started our 6000k train journey from Moscow for the first two days all we could see out of the carriage window was trees - when we awoke this morning in Northern Mongolia all we could see was grass plains and mountains.. over the past few days the view has changed drastically. Now there are no trees at all.
Am now in Ulanbatoor in Mongolia.
The town centre is dominated by Sukhbatoor Square and the very impressive parliament building, the giant mayor's office and the Blue Sky wind-sail-shape skyscraper (that is empty apparently). They all look magnificent.
This morning we visited two traditional homes in the yellow-rocks ger district no more than half a mile from the town centre. They had no running water (a communal well only) no sewage (just toilet pits) yet the folks were so friendly and so proud of their Mongolia and their Ghengis Khan heritage.
We all went gift shopping in the National Department Store and then I walked back alone through the centre to the San Hotel alone. No probs. Dodgy people and pickpockets everywhere we are warned. And crossing the street is easy, just go!! jaywalk amongst the dust, the noise and the manic traffic. No probs.
We are sleeping overnight tomorrow in a ger tent.and going to a culture show.. and then back (erk!) onto the train to Beijing.
Would love Heinz baked beans on toast with brown sauce!!! or pork pie, pickle and chips!! Mmmmmmmmm
Little Blue Cup on a long train journey making friends
I am such a happy little blue cup. Am grubby and well used, coffee, tea, beer. I love the bumpity-bump-sway of the train. And my four Russian friends are such fun. Even if I can't understand a word they clink.
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