Had a super 2 hour boat trip on the very southern part of Lake Baikal this morning - total blue skies. With wonderful mountains in the distance. Had lunch and a wander around a local market at Baikal Town and then saw at least four wedding celebrations. Each bride was in big white and each groom was in a shiny silver/grey polyester suit like those we wore 40 years ago. Each wedding group had a buffet meal served on the bonnet of their car in the car park opposite the main hotel, with dancing in the car park to music from the car. All very liberating and open. And unusual.
Back at the chalet/hotel this evening we have had a Russian sauna; ladies first then the guys, very steamy, very hot... five guys bashing themselves off with branches of birch leaves. Phew!
Back on the train tomorrow...
Friday, 29 July 2011
Thursday, 28 July 2011
Trans Siberian times - 27th July
The train I am travelling on has just passed the 4500km mark, this stage of my journey is Moscow to Irkutsk; we reach Irkutsk tomorrow morning. The train (and therefore us) runs on Moscow time. Which is confusing. Got up at 8am this morning (your time 5am, local time 1pm. As soon as we reach Irkutsk and we get off the train we will go onto local time. We have to get up at 3am (my time) or 8am (new time) and your time in England midnight. It's getting dark now, my time is 6pm; it'll be totally dark at 6.30pm.... that's midnight. Or 4pm for you... I think!!
We are not eating in the dining car (it's a bit expensive) and have bought stores from a local MYNMARKT: starters fried squid flavoured crisps; main course POVVTOH KYPUHAR MaMWA (very salty herby type pot noodle) and MAXAPNIIIH cakes for afters (fairy cakes with strawberry jam and cream in the middle)
I bought potato dumplings from a baboushka yesterday. Imagine a jam doughnut filled with mashed potato and no jam and no sugar. Delicious!!! Not. Yuk!!
Am fine; really feeling a long way from home now. Have had four and a half continuous days on the train, be so pleased to walk on steady land tomorrow.
We are not eating in the dining car (it's a bit expensive) and have bought stores from a local MYNMARKT: starters fried squid flavoured crisps; main course POVVTOH KYPUHAR MaMWA (very salty herby type pot noodle) and MAXAPNIIIH cakes for afters (fairy cakes with strawberry jam and cream in the middle)
I bought potato dumplings from a baboushka yesterday. Imagine a jam doughnut filled with mashed potato and no jam and no sugar. Delicious!!! Not. Yuk!!
Am fine; really feeling a long way from home now. Have had four and a half continuous days on the train, be so pleased to walk on steady land tomorrow.
Saturday, 23 July 2011
Got locked in the Kremlin today for three hours!!
I came to Russia with preconceptions that had evolved over the years, even though I had heard there had been big changes; I still expected austerity and stoicness, a communist presence and a population that is disheartened and controlled. I expected Red Square and the Kremlin a military building to be heavily guarded and generally closed to the public.
I expected to be aware of KGB agents watching and suspicious military police everywhere.
All wrong!!! In fact there is no communism here any more, the public happily enjoy capitalism and a free economy. One whole side of Red Square is GUM which is the most exclusive, enormous chic designer clothes and goods shops imaginable. Think Harrods.
And of course, the Kremlin is a wonderful tourist attraction. It has a palace (being refurbished) a theatre, gardens, walks and a museum and three wonderful Russian Orthodox cathedrals to wonder at. It took us well over two hours to be guided round it all.The Kremlin is surrounded by a high red brick wall, and yes, we had to go through security to get into it. And there are lots of soldiers about but it's more like the presence at Buck Pal.
And I am beginning to understand.
St Basils is a Russian Orthodox cathedral in Red Square and is the most beautiful I have ever seen.Went to see Comrade Lenin too. He is dressed in his best suit and looks good enough to get up and walk away.
I am on the train to Irkutsk for over 3 days now, next stop Lake Baikal, then Mongolia.
Friday, 22 July 2011
Resisting the temptations of baboushka - 21st July
A baboushka is traditionally the doll within a doll within a doll that everybody that comes to Russia buys. I could have come away with the real thing tonight. A baboushka is also a matronly grandmother.
We have arrived in Suzdal which is only two hours from Moscow and is a small town with a deep history, a dozen beautiful churches and a monastery and a convent. I had my second moment of the holidays listening to four monks dressed in black suits (not black robes) singing a chant. So soaringly beautiful amongst the 600 year old frescoes that talked of hundreds of years of devotion it moved me to tears.
We had breakfast at a local house, traditional cheese bakes with wild strawberry or cherry jam and ham and cheese on bread. Enjoyed so much we chose to come back this evening and join Linya for dinner. Garlic cheese compote in tomato with a Russian-style coleslaw and green leaves; borsch soup and chicken/rice breasts with mashed potato. All very Russian, all cooked by Linya.
Each course preceded and followed by a vodka toast (they don't say nostrovia) to health and happiness or to people. Then we partied, with Russian music from a DVD playing in a TV. Linya took a shine to me; much to my horror and much to the hilarity of the rest of the group. She speaks not a word of English. We danced.. and I played along. We drank more vodka, and I had to help Andrew drink his too, he doesn't drink much. Sweating profusely with a thunderstorm and rain outside, we all danced and laughed. Such ribald fun. And Linya kept making a bee-line for me. We must have consumed six medium bottles of vodka between the 11 of us. And we laughed so much. Linya invited me to her sauna down the bottom of the garden (I said nyet) she pushed my nose down between her ample, sweating bosom (several times) and the whole group cracked up... and took lots of photos. I just went shy.
A RTW Strongie experience not to be forgotten.
And now back in the hotel, single room spinning. Hot fragrant tea, pint of water..
Bring on Moscow!!
We have arrived in Suzdal which is only two hours from Moscow and is a small town with a deep history, a dozen beautiful churches and a monastery and a convent. I had my second moment of the holidays listening to four monks dressed in black suits (not black robes) singing a chant. So soaringly beautiful amongst the 600 year old frescoes that talked of hundreds of years of devotion it moved me to tears.
We had breakfast at a local house, traditional cheese bakes with wild strawberry or cherry jam and ham and cheese on bread. Enjoyed so much we chose to come back this evening and join Linya for dinner. Garlic cheese compote in tomato with a Russian-style coleslaw and green leaves; borsch soup and chicken/rice breasts with mashed potato. All very Russian, all cooked by Linya.
Each course preceded and followed by a vodka toast (they don't say nostrovia) to health and happiness or to people. Then we partied, with Russian music from a DVD playing in a TV. Linya took a shine to me; much to my horror and much to the hilarity of the rest of the group. She speaks not a word of English. We danced.. and I played along. We drank more vodka, and I had to help Andrew drink his too, he doesn't drink much. Sweating profusely with a thunderstorm and rain outside, we all danced and laughed. Such ribald fun. And Linya kept making a bee-line for me. We must have consumed six medium bottles of vodka between the 11 of us. And we laughed so much. Linya invited me to her sauna down the bottom of the garden (I said nyet) she pushed my nose down between her ample, sweating bosom (several times) and the whole group cracked up... and took lots of photos. I just went shy.
A RTW Strongie experience not to be forgotten.
And now back in the hotel, single room spinning. Hot fragrant tea, pint of water..
Bring on Moscow!!
Tuesday, 19 July 2011
Art treasures and history
2 days, 2 Cathedrals, 2 museums, 2 Palaces. Yeah!! Enough!!
But both of those Palaces belonged to Csar Nicholas. And one of the museum's was maybe the best in the world. The Hermitage.
I judge that solely on the two rooms of Gaugin and Picasso each. 3 rooms of Matisse (with several very recognisable ones) and one room of Monet (that's 8 paintings)
After 2 hours I was ready to give in and had to admit defeat by asking a little Russian lady selling souvenirs if she spoke English "a liddle" and then ask where the French Impressionists were. And it was in a whole undiscovered floor of 19th and 20thC European art. Wonderful!
Weary, just about to go and I literally stopped in my tracks and stepped back half a dozen paces.. a whole three rooms of Henry Moore! I give in!!
Now back at the hotel, pot of tea... cake aaah!
We are going out late tonight and meet at 1230am for an hour's boat trip. It will not be completely dark and hopefully a lot cooler. It is up in the mid 30's here.
Tomorrow on the train to Suzdal and then on to Moscow. More treasure.
BTW asked the tour leader (she is Russian) on the bus this evening about HP. She said 'Potter.. he is more popular than Putin!
Apparently everyone reads HP but the film is not realeased yet...
But both of those Palaces belonged to Csar Nicholas. And one of the museum's was maybe the best in the world. The Hermitage.
I judge that solely on the two rooms of Gaugin and Picasso each. 3 rooms of Matisse (with several very recognisable ones) and one room of Monet (that's 8 paintings)
After 2 hours I was ready to give in and had to admit defeat by asking a little Russian lady selling souvenirs if she spoke English "a liddle" and then ask where the French Impressionists were. And it was in a whole undiscovered floor of 19th and 20thC European art. Wonderful!
Weary, just about to go and I literally stopped in my tracks and stepped back half a dozen paces.. a whole three rooms of Henry Moore! I give in!!
Now back at the hotel, pot of tea... cake aaah!
We are going out late tonight and meet at 1230am for an hour's boat trip. It will not be completely dark and hopefully a lot cooler. It is up in the mid 30's here.
Tomorrow on the train to Suzdal and then on to Moscow. More treasure.
BTW asked the tour leader (she is Russian) on the bus this evening about HP. She said 'Potter.. he is more popular than Putin!
Apparently everyone reads HP but the film is not realeased yet...
Sunday, 17 July 2011
Culture shock and foot shock
I have wandered around St Petersburg today for 7 hours; with an hours break back at my 3000 ruble a night (ouch) hotel for black tea and a shower.
Amazing! Amazing! Everywhere I look there is awesome architecture. Nevsky Prospekt is a miles long wide avenue and I've been up and down it, and keep looking up, nearly got run over once.
I've been in Kazan Cathedral and the 'Church of the Saviour on the Blood' which is a Russian Orthodox and has wall to ceiling mosaics the most colourful I have ever seen. Fantastic.
It's all so different here. Hardly anybody speaks English. Even the Church had about 6 guides and none of them spoke English, I seemed to be the only English person on the ferry last night. Everywhere there is English up-to-date pop music and rap; everywhere there are people wearing English and US designer labels but hardly anybody in the streets speaks English. Even the vendor selling souvenirs asked me if I wanted the beautiful faberge-type mini-egg for my knickerless lady.. "why you smile?".. so I then had to embarassingly explain necklace..
I struggle eating alone in restaurant and admit I would rather go without; but I did eventually go in Macdonalds... but it was packed so I went into a Subway and had a put-everything-in-it sub and a Danish pastry - all with pointing and lots of 'da's'
Thank you is saseba - but I keep forgetting and want to say placebo.
Tomorrow we all go out for our first meal and I can't wait to try the meat soup with dumplings.
But hooray!! No Harry Potter... Helsinki had it on every billboard.
I'm three hours ahead of you now, that means when I get up tomorrow at 730 it'll be 430 in England.
The water is dodgy. The river Neva is badly polluted and literally stinks. Apparently if I'm not careful withthe tap water I could get giardia lamblia... and I dont want that! But come to think of it - I had salad in my subway... oops!
Amazing! Amazing! Everywhere I look there is awesome architecture. Nevsky Prospekt is a miles long wide avenue and I've been up and down it, and keep looking up, nearly got run over once.
I've been in Kazan Cathedral and the 'Church of the Saviour on the Blood' which is a Russian Orthodox and has wall to ceiling mosaics the most colourful I have ever seen. Fantastic.
It's all so different here. Hardly anybody speaks English. Even the Church had about 6 guides and none of them spoke English, I seemed to be the only English person on the ferry last night. Everywhere there is English up-to-date pop music and rap; everywhere there are people wearing English and US designer labels but hardly anybody in the streets speaks English. Even the vendor selling souvenirs asked me if I wanted the beautiful faberge-type mini-egg for my knickerless lady.. "why you smile?".. so I then had to embarassingly explain necklace..
I struggle eating alone in restaurant and admit I would rather go without; but I did eventually go in Macdonalds... but it was packed so I went into a Subway and had a put-everything-in-it sub and a Danish pastry - all with pointing and lots of 'da's'
Thank you is saseba - but I keep forgetting and want to say placebo.
Tomorrow we all go out for our first meal and I can't wait to try the meat soup with dumplings.
But hooray!! No Harry Potter... Helsinki had it on every billboard.
I'm three hours ahead of you now, that means when I get up tomorrow at 730 it'll be 430 in England.
The water is dodgy. The river Neva is badly polluted and literally stinks. Apparently if I'm not careful withthe tap water I could get giardia lamblia... and I dont want that! But come to think of it - I had salad in my subway... oops!
Friday, 15 July 2011
Tar in your tea
When I was out yesterday wandering the explore in Helsinki City I heard an explosion. A deep rumbling roar that could only have been an awful event or mining. I found out what it was today. It was underneath the Finnish parliament building.
Yesterday it was blue skies; today it has rained all day and a rainy day is a museum day. National Museum of Finland for about 3 hours and a museum on life at sea. And a guided tour of the Finnish Parliament. But this is no Westminster. Finland has only been a democracy since 1917 and the Parliament building is relatively new and is all art deco with marble floors and stairs and tubular steel furniture, even in the Commons. They have PR here - England beware! Their current stystem has 8 main parties and the government is made up of a coalition of 6 of them. How on earth do they get any business done? And the government bureaucracy is growing too, hence the need for more space, hence the mining and explosion.
I love tea... EG me.
Finnish tea is weird. A mixture of black tea, lemon and tar. And it tastes like it. And says it on the packets. Apparently they use tar in several foodstuffs. There is even a tar licquer...
Big ship to Russia tomorrow. Gulp!!
I wonder if Russian tea has vodka flavours...
Yesterday it was blue skies; today it has rained all day and a rainy day is a museum day. National Museum of Finland for about 3 hours and a museum on life at sea. And a guided tour of the Finnish Parliament. But this is no Westminster. Finland has only been a democracy since 1917 and the Parliament building is relatively new and is all art deco with marble floors and stairs and tubular steel furniture, even in the Commons. They have PR here - England beware! Their current stystem has 8 main parties and the government is made up of a coalition of 6 of them. How on earth do they get any business done? And the government bureaucracy is growing too, hence the need for more space, hence the mining and explosion.
I love tea... EG me.
Finnish tea is weird. A mixture of black tea, lemon and tar. And it tastes like it. And says it on the packets. Apparently they use tar in several foodstuffs. There is even a tar licquer...
Big ship to Russia tomorrow. Gulp!!
I wonder if Russian tea has vodka flavours...
Thursday, 14 July 2011
Helsinki
Wonderful flight. As it was getting dark flying over the many little islands on the Finnish coast I wrote: ' like a million shards of black glass scattered over a darkened grey mirror'
We flew into Helsinki at 1145pm and watched the sun set and at 300mph it sets quickly. Took me an hour to get me baggage, board the Finnair bus and get off at 'Oopera' (opera house) and walk to the hostel. By the time I was putting me bags in the room it was getting light again.
The hostel is in the olympic stadium built in 1952 ( yeah, so its getting a major renovation and perhaps I should as well, we are the same age) and famous for Pavlo Nurmi who was a Finnish gold medallist then.
We flew into Helsinki at 1145pm and watched the sun set and at 300mph it sets quickly. Took me an hour to get me baggage, board the Finnair bus and get off at 'Oopera' (opera house) and walk to the hostel. By the time I was putting me bags in the room it was getting light again.
The hostel is in the olympic stadium built in 1952 ( yeah, so its getting a major renovation and perhaps I should as well, we are the same age) and famous for Pavlo Nurmi who was a Finnish gold medallist then.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)