Home again, home again, home again...

And how to end a blog that has lasted six months?

Try a few stats: 

I travelled through  11 countries and all the world time zones.

45,000 kilometers journeyed.

£12000 spent. 3549 photographs.

I learned how to say please and thank you in nine languages; and have already forgotten eight of them.

I have two full exercise books of almost-daily hand written diary.

I walked a total of 720 kilometers (but set myself a target of 1000).

16 flights in six months.

Four long train journeys:

Trans Siberian from St Petersburg to Beijing; San Francisco to Seattle; Seattle to St Pauls/Minneapolis; Copenhagen to Stockholm.

Four ferries: Helsinki to St Petersburg; Busan to Shimoniseki and two to the Orknies.

And how did it all end?  Paul and Sophie were at Heathrow to greet me holding a

Mr Man picture with Round the World Strongie boldly written on it.  And had organised me a buffet and party when I got home…bless!   So, home again, home again, home again.

And what did I learn?

Several things struck me: 

On the big train...  The sudden change from the lack of energy and antipathy of Mongolia to that of China.  Within a few miles of desert and barrenness of the Mongolian side of the Gobi there was Chinese industry, farming, housing… bustling and productive. 

The wonderful sweet, politeness, charm and pleasantness of the Far Eastern people.  Especially Korea.  It was very noticeable.

I did not see loads of amazing, wonderful, totally-different flora and fauna.  Sadly.

Even everyday clover, blackberries, hogweed… sparrows, starlings…squirrels… spruce, birch… were just everywhere.

I was surprised how the major world-renowned icons were not how I really expected them to be. 
Tianamen Square, Forbidden City,  the Great Wall,  Kremlin, the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley.  They looked incredibly familiar… but they were not. 

The obvious social decay in California was shocking.  It was not just the homelessness but it was a pervading atmosphere.  Ok, I know I was not poshing it up in 5* hotels but I did not expect such hopelessness.

But there is such beauty everywhere.  And I know that on my little travel I did not even scratch the surface.  It’s a big wonderful world out there.

I've been to Salem...Aaaaaagh!!!

Think of Salem and you might think of evil... witches; Blackbeard the pirate's birthplace..
Well....  It might be evil...

But the town was all colourful clapboard houses, and the prettiest I've seen in USA so far.
And the harbour was huge, and sparkled with hundreds of yachts bobbing up and down.
And there was such a sharp, clean light everywhere.
And the New England trees are just, only just, turning Autumnal.
And there's lots of arty little shops and cafe's and souvenir haunts.
And such history.  Renowned as the town that led a fanatical witch hunt it now prides itself in leading the USA against prejudice and hate and the fear of the unknown.
Salem is beautiful.

Boston is like Seattle.  Clean, vibrant, safe and has such pride in it's place in American history; it has been a  such a pleasure to visit it.
And I've been to Harvard.
Pah! I went on a student-led guided tour.  And he proudly introduced the Boston University and explained it's history.  I've seen the Yard and the Memorial Hall (which has a sad story involving the Titanic).  I've seen Kennedy's window to his room when he stayed. But. Pah!  Not a faint shadow of the beauty and majestic history of Cambridge and Oxford.

And I have been to the Cheers bar.  But was very disappointed; it was just another bar in a mall and you had to book a table to go in... but since then, of course,  I have found out that that wasn't the real Cheers bar - that is near Boston Common and I'll go tomorrow... but, of course, that will not be the real Cheers bar either - the real one is on a tv lot.

I am a little gekko

Downstairs on the double decker train in the snackbar is Dan. He has three one-hour breaks in his 16 hour day and he is  a dime short in his quarter of customer service. But he looked at me while I ordered yet another black tea.. "I'm sorry?".. pause, blank look at me as if he hadn't heard me.. "I just can't stop thinking of that little gekko in the advert on TV - you're English accent is just so him." And others around agreed.  My squeaky little English voice is uncannily like the little gekko... you know the one?.  It's ok, though, apparently the women here think he's cute.

On the Amtrak train from Seattle to St Paul/Minneapolis for the onward flight to my last four days of the RTW holiday in Boston.
Made friends with a guy from St Cloud who served in VietNam and was on his way back from a reunion.  Really interesting; we talked American attitudes to Nam now and then.  And we talked guns.  He owns three pistols, a rifle and a shotgun. The former for protection the latter for hunting.  Apparently 90% of his friends own similar.

We have been through Glacier Park There were no glaciers and just s smudge of snow on the 8000' mountains.
And then there's a lot of big skies in Wyoming, and as far as the eye can see, nothing.
Went through Wolf City and there was a great statue of a wolf.. the city got it's name from the original Wolf fur trading post that it started from.

And North Dakota. And Williston.  Which I was thinking was yee-hah cowboy country. Nope buddy. There's oil in them thar wheatfields!  They struck Texas gold here in the 50's and only recently realised that it actually is a field as big as a Texas one.  Woopity-Do!  And as dusk came on you could see little distant oil flares and see-saw oil pumps everywhere
.
Which probably explains why gas is $3.45 a gallon here. Yes, a gallon!

So, the wheels eventually came off...

After a few days of things going wrong I so wanted to love Seatttle.  And not be sleepless and stressed.  The overnight Coastal Starlight train from San Francisco to Seattle did not start well.  As I tried to put my newly purchased Chinese case in the overhead rack the wheels fell off.  Broked. OMG! Now what!!
And I was in seat 44 - in the aisle and next to me in the window seat was a black guy the size of a sumo wrestler.  Gulp!! Minnow me.  And of course he snored.  All night. Right next to me.  More OMG! I probably got only an hour's sleep. And another rock-bottom moment.
It was a spectacular sunrise, but I couldnt see it, he had pulled the curtain and I sure wasn't going to disturb Mr Giant haystacks. Minnow me. But...
At 645am I went to get breakfast at the dining car. And the sun shone on me.  I got turned away cos I did not have shoes on... but... I discovered the observation and lounge car.  And joy!  Snack bar, coffee and big-windows view.   I did not go back to GHaystacks for the remaining 12 hours.
When we got into Oregon two people got on who were locals and they gave us a running commentary as we went past Crater Lake, Mount St Helens.  More joy!  Such lovely people. Me into it now! The scenery is lovely. And I have neever seen so many blackberries! They have blackberry festivals out here!
Our guides got off at Salem. Only to be replaced by two more who entertained us right through to Seattle.
And Seattle is cool. Not scary. Not hectic and nasty. It's beautiful. Happy me!!

I have updated my itinerary.
Have been on a boat trip. Have seen the aquarium. Have had my hair cut. And went to Bainbridge Island today. And there's an underground tour, and a monorail and I have had a fab spicy lunch and tomorrow am going to go on an Indian trip... and... and... and...

In a previous life I went on an oh-so-boring Coral's course that encouraged us to create an atmosphere in our betting shop - make customer service our priority- make it a fun place to come in to. They extolled this by showing us a short film of a fish market in Seattle. 
And how surreal it was to actually be there. I recognised it immediately, even though I hadn't thought about it for a year... Couldn't  believe it, there they were, laughing, shouting, singing, throwing the fish to each other. And yes, they drew a crowd.. and yes they were so funny and so good...and seemed so happy at work...
 I can't wait to get back to Corals and to put these practises in now I have actually seen them.  NOT!!

And if you're going to...

Be sure to wear a jumper and pack your fleece...

After weeks and weeks of coping with 30 degree heat everyday since Moscow; San Francisco was decidedly chilly.  And wonderfully so.

I did all I wanted to. Nearly. Managed to get a decent hotel; after 2 nights in hostel in Saigontown I transferred to a wonderful hotel and a very kingsize bed.  Oopspounds.

I managed to get me some new readymade glasses, $219.. ouch! (insce claim?)
And rode the Powell and Mason and other trams.  Only for the fun though, they are so slow.  And always full!
Had gumbo.  And no, that's not an illness.
Went under and over the Golden Gate bridge (with fog) and around Alcatraz.  And loved the hustle and bustle at Fisherman's Wharf with live buskers and street bands and street food vendors.

But again.  So much despair, so many helpless, homeless, blank faces muttering, grovelling in the gutters and begging and such a feeling of hostility in the streets.  That now means every city I have been to in the USA I have felt uncomfortable and unsafe.

I have succumbed.  The call of home and family and very special people.  I have reorganised my ROW in 81 days to ROW in 66 days and come home a week on Sunday.  Time to see Seattle, do another train journey, find some tall trees  and seeBoston. 
Two months is a long time to be away from beans on toast with daddies sauce, Morrisons and Downton Abbey.

Am I safe here?? 3/9/11

The Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon and Zion were magnificent and true natural wonders of the world.
Pick up a few superlatives and pour liberally:
Zion:               Keith and I waded knee deep in Virgin River at the narrows with 2400' cliffs on either side.
Vegas:            Our group walked along the Venice canal while the gondoliers punted and sang (each gondala cost $64 to hire), we watched live opera in St Marks Square with jugglers, stilt walkers performing and we wandered along Venetian narrow streets and window shopped... all inside a hotel.
Glen Canyon:  We looked 2000'  straight down at Horseshoe Bend.
Lake Powell:   Swam in the largest man-made lake in USA (the water was so warm, just like a bath.. such a difference to Lake Baikal)

And as a contrast:
Today I flew to San Francisco.  Lots of people telling me how wonderful it is.  Well, I ain't seen it yet.
The hostel is in Ellis Street that is the top of a triangle together with Eddy St and Turk St that apparently is not safe at night, during the day it is "not so bad" and I quote:   "only rampant drugs and vice"  Great!!  In the dark this evening I walked hundreds of yards along a street with very, very, very dodgy looking guys hanging around.  Not that I saw them.  I looked straight ahead, pulling my wobbly-wheels suitcase beihind me.  Anyway, I couldnt see a f.....in thing without my glasses.  Whatever.

Tue 30/8 - Well, howdy pardner!!

Old-timer Strongie here...
And out here in the old Wild Wild West it sure is purdy. 
Now there's the old Grand Canyon - they say eets one of the wonders of the world.  And I ain't gonna contreedict that.  It sure looks fine to me.  Meejestic I calls it.

Then we moved on to John Ford cowboy land.  Monument valley it's called.  And it's one hell of a view!  Came across some right friendly injuns too.  Even shared some corn bread and beans with them.
 
The old jalopy we was travelling in.. a  new-fangled 4X4, it went a-lurching and a-swaying over that old desert just like an old mule I used to have.  But we stopped evry now and then - right easy like.  This old wise injun, he played his  flute for us up in the shade by the rocks and it seemed like it was timeless.  I tell yer, it was like he was talkin to his ancestors. 
Mind yer, they don't like being called navajo; it's a name the Spanish called them and means 'thief''.. which aint kinda fair.
The trading post here is darned good too.  They makes money selling beads and bits of a-whittling and sand sculpture.  Mighty purdy some of them.  But cost yer an arm and a leg if yer have a mind to buy.

Well - we's going to as rodeo - yee hah!! tomorrow and gonna have a real cowboy dinner.  Sure wish yer could all join me.

Stoical 27th Aug

Stoical is a good word.  I think it means accepting what you've got and just getting on with it.  I'm that.

Went out at 10pm last night.  Looking like one of the M.I.B. Decent suit trousers, best cashmere-like pullover (not shirt or t-shirt). And I thought I looked good (Not D and O).  I wandered around Fremont Avenue, live band, lots of people, noise, lights, lasers, millions of fruit machines.  Then caught the shuttle up town to the Strip.  Took a hundred pictures.  Absolutely magic.  Watched the volcano erupt at Mirage, watched the immense fountain display at Caesar's and then onto Treasure Island where there was a live free show; involving two pirate ships in battle and one getting sunk!  All spectacular.  And I felt conspicuous wearing my shades, but, hey, get on with it!

Today my new Explore group of 6 have had an 8 hour journey along route 66 to Red Feather Lodge near the Grand Canyon.  And this evening we watched the sun set on the rim.  With a thunderstorm brewing it was majestic and magnificent.  Photo's attached.

It's occured to me that the stars will be wonderful later, we're in the middle of nowhere.  But, hey, I would not be able to see them.
I will contact Icelandair when their offices open tomorrow (on the way to our hike in the Canyon) and will see about re-arranging the rest of my holiday.

My holiday suddenly gets darker

Venice Beach was not a good experience.  But I have managed to escape the noisy, seedy, gloomy hostel of very little sleep and am now in Vegas.

The bus drive (turned out to be a greyhound) over the Mohave desert was not bad.  But I struggled to stay awake.
I was so dishevelled as I left the dodgy bus station pulling my new Chinese suitcase behind me on wheels that do not work properly that an American lady offered me money... she said she thought I looked down-and-out.
Yes, you can laugh.

Got in a taxi (my money, not hers) and the $66 a night hotel has 5000 rooms nd a million fruit machines.  And I left my glasses in the back of the taxi.  And the world is a darker place when you only have precription sunglasses left.  I have made enquiries ad do not hold out much hope of getting them back.

I have a day before I start my Explore trip in the Grand Canyon.  I am feeling dejected and making enquiries about coming home early..

Mind you, Vegas is also noisy, and seedy at night too and  as I walked (wearing best trousers, jumper and sunglasses... I felt clean but very vulnerable.

Little Blue Cup

I regret to announce the passing of Little Blue Cup.
He has not gone to the Great Dump of Broken Cups in the Sky but has passed onto another life.
After 4 nights with very little sleep I left him in a carrier bag containing food at a bus stop in downtown Venice.
He was a good friend and trusted travelling and working companion and I will miss him.
I hope he finds a new owner, perhaps somone down on his luck and perhaps he will bring hope in this Brave New World.

Hopeless in Venice

After a 4 hour flight from Tokyo to Beijing; a three hour wait at Beijing for my connecting flight and then a 12 hour non stop flight to Los Angeles and then to cap it all a one hour wait for my shuttle to pick me up...I was weary and  my body clock was shot. I'd just had a 36 hour day. I had slept a bit on the jumbo jet... but...  I was wide awake at 430am this morning.  My motel room was expensive for what I got: $72 and I couldn't even have the satisfaction of a long night's sleep.

And lost in Venice by 11am.  Walking the wrong way down Venice Boulevard for well over a mile, heavy bag over my shoulder and me pulling an even heavier case behind me.  Of course I eventually caught a bus and got there in the end.  But the beach was shrouded by a gloomy mist til well gone 1pm.

Venice beach is not what it used to be.  It used to be bohemian, a centre for beatnik and the sixties culture.  It is supposed to be arty, zany, bright, youthful, with roller skaters and cyclists and a beach culture.
I expected lots of quaint little cafes.  NO.  Now it is a mile or more of street vendors selling cheap jewellery, cheap non-art and cheap tacky clothes.  And the atmosphere is sordid and nasty and angry.  There was even a guy advertising 'kick my ass for $1'. And he was being serious.    There are more homeless, more down-and-outs here than there were in Beijing.  And I do not feel safe.
It may be called colourful but it has a feeling of hopeless resignation.  I'd much rather be in Beijing.

Tomorrow I will escape to see J. Paul Getty and Queen Mary and Naples and I will sort the bus I want to take over the Mojave desert to Las Vegas - now that's one place that will not disappoint me... surely??

Ｔｏｋｙｏ

Ｉ　ｌｏｖｅ　ｔｈｅ　ｗａｙ　ｔｈｅ　Ｊａｐａｎｅｓｅ　ｐｅｏｐｌｅ　ｂｏｗ　ｔｏ　ｅａｃｈ　ｏｔｈｅｒ．　Ａｎｄ　ｔｈｅｙ　ａｌｌ　ｄｏ　ｉｔ　ｕｐｏｎ　ａ　ｍｅｅｔｉｎｇ／ｉｎｔｒｏｄｕｃｔｉｏｎ　－　ｙｏｕｎｇ　ａｎｄ　ｏｌｄ．　Ｉｔ‘ｓ ｎｏｔ　a 　ｍｅｒｅ　ｎｏｄ　ｏｆ　ｔｈｅ　ｈｅａｄ，ｎｏｒ　a ｄｏｕｂｌｅｄ　ｏｖｅｒ　ｋｏｗ－ｔｏｗ　ｂｕｔ　ｉｔ‘ｓ　a 　ｌｏｗｅｒｉｎｇ　ｏｆ　ｔｈｅ　ｈｅａｄ　ｔｈａｔ　ｆｏｒ　ｍｅ　ｓａｙｓ　ｒｅｓｐｅｃｔ　ａｎｄ　ｄｅｆｅｒｅｎｃｅ．　　Ｏｆｆｅｒ　ｙｏｕｒ　ｓｅａｔ　ｏｎ　ｔｈｅ　ｔｒａｉｎ　ａｎｄ　ｙｏｕ　
ｅｘｃｈａｎｇｅ　ｂｏｗｓ，　ｂｕｙ　ｓｏｍｅｔｈｉｎｇ　ｉｎ　ｔｈｅ　ｓｈｏｐ　ａｎｄ　ｙｏｕ　ｅｘｃｈａｎｇｅ　ｂｏｗｓ．　　Ｉｔ‘ｓ　ｃｏｏｌ．　　Ａｎｄ　I　 ａｍ　ｂｅｃｏｍｉｎｇ　ｑｕｉｔｅ　ａｄｅｐｔ　ａｔ　ｉｔ．　　Ａｎｄ　ｈｏｗ　ｍａｎｙ　ｔｈａｎｋｙｏｕ‘ｓ　ｈａｖｅ　Ｉ　ｌｅａｒｎｅｄ？　　Ａｒｉｇａｔｏ　ｗｏｒｋｓ　ｈｅｒｅ，　ａｎｄ　Ｉ　ｋｎｏｗ　ｍｙ　ｓａｙｏｎａｒａ‘ｓ　ａｎｄ　
ｋｏｎｎｉｃｈａｗａ‘ｓ．
Ｉ‘ｖｅ　ｈａｄ　ｓｕｃｈｉ　ｆｏｒ　ｔｈｅ　ｌａｓｔ　８　ｅｖｅｎｉｎｇｓ．　　Ｂｕｔ　ｂｅｉｎｇ　ｃａｒｅｆｕｌ　ｗｉｔｈ　ｔｈｅ　ｄｏｓｈ　
ｉｔ‘ｓ　ｏｎｌｙ　ｂｅｅｎ　ｆｒｏｍ　ｔｈｅ　ｌｏｃａｌ　ｓｕｐｅｒｍａｒｋｅｔ．　　Ｂｕｔ　Ｉ　ｌｏｖｅ　ｉｔ　ａｎｄ　ｗｏｕｌｄ　ｓｏ　
ｅｎｊｏｙ　a 　ｐｒｏｐｅｒ　ｒｅｓｔａｕｒａｎｔ　ｍｅａｌ，　ｂｕｔ　Ｉ　ｗｏｕｌｄｎ‘ｔ　ｄｏ　ｉｔ　ａｌｏｎｅ　ｎｏｒ　ｃａｎ　Ｉ　
ｊｕｓｔｉｆｙ　ｐａｙｉｎｇ　ｔｈｅ　３０００Ｙ　ｉｔ　ｗｏｕｌｄ　ｃｏｓｔ　ｍｅ．　Ｔｈｅｙ‘ｖｅ　ａｌｓｏ　ｇｏｔ　a　 ｃａｎ　ｏｆ　
ＳＴＲＯＮＧ　ｈｅｒｅ，ｉｔ‘ｓ　ｖｏｄｋａ　ａｎｄ　ｌｅｍｏｎａｄｅ．


Ｉ‘ｖｅ　ｗａｌｋｅｄ　ａｒｏｕｎｄ　（ａｎｄ　ｇｏｔ　ｌｏｓｔ）　ａｎｄ　ｍｅｔｒｏ‘ｄ　ａｒｏｕｎｄ　Ｔｏｋｙｏ　（ａｎｄ　ｃａｕｇｈｔ　ｔｈｅ　ｗｒｏｎｇ　ｔｒａｉｎ）　Ｂｅｅｎ　ｕｐ　a 　ｓｋｙｓｃｒａｐｅｒ，　ｏｎ　　a　 ｍｏｎｏｒａｉｌ，　ｈａｖｅ　ｓｅｅｎ　a
ｈｕｎｄｒｅｄ　ｐａｒｋｓ，　ｓｅｅｎ　a　 ｍｉｌｌｉｏｎ　ｍｏｒｅ　ｔｅｍｐｌｅｓ　ａｎｄ　ａ　ｃｏｕｐｌｅ　ｏｆ　ｍｕｓｅｕｍｓ．
Ａｎｄ　Ｉ‘ｍ　ｔｉｒｅｄ．Ａｎｄ　ｉｔ‘ｓ　ｔｉｍｅ　ｔｏ　ｓａｙ　ｓａｙｏｎａｒａ　ｔｏ　ｔｈｅ　Ｆａｒ　Ｅａｓｔ．
Ｍｙ　ｎｅｗ　ｃａｓｅ　ｉｓ　ｂｕｒｓｔｉｎｇ．　　Ｉ　ｈａｖｅ　a ｗｈｏｌｅ　ｌａｙｅｒ　ｏｆ　ｎｉｃ－ｎａｃ　ｐｒｅｓｅｎｔｓ．　　Ａｎｄ　Ｉ　ｈａｖｅ　１５００　ｐｌｕｓ　ｐｈｏｔｏｓ．
Ａｎｄ　ｐｅｏｐｌｅ．
Ｔｈｅｒｅ‘ｓ　a ｌａｄｙ　ｉｎ　ｔｈｉｓ　ｈｏｓｔｅｌ　ｗｈｏ　ｉｓ　ｗｅｌｌ　ｉｎｔｏ　ｓｐｅｎｄｉｎｇ　ａ　ｙｅａｒ　ｔｒａｖｅｌｌｉｎｇ　ｔｈｅ　ｗｏｒｌｄ　ｗｉｔｈ　ｈｅｒ　８　ｙｅａｒ　ｏｌｄ　ｓｏｎ．　　Ｊｕｓｔ　ｔｈｅ　ｔｗｏ　ｏｆ　ｔｈｅｍ．　　Ｓｃｈｏｏｌ　ｉｓ　ｏｎ　ｔｈｅ　Ｉ　Ｐａｄ　ｉｎ　ｔｈｅ　ｅｖｅｎｉｎｇ．　　Ｈｅ　ｉｓ　ｖｅｒｙ　ｂｒｉｇｈｔ．　Ａｎｄ　ｍｅｅｔｉｎｇ　ｐｅｏｐｌｅ　ｌｉｋｅ　ｔｈｉｓ　ｉｓ　a ｊｏｙ．　　Ｂｕｔ　ｅｖｅｎ　ｔｈｏｕｇｈ　Ｉ　ａｍ　ｈａｖｉｎｇ　ｍｙ　ｏｗｎ　ｌｉｔｔｌｅ　ａｄｖｅｎｔｕｒｅ，　ｉｔ　ｃａｎｎｏｔ　
ｃｏｍｐｅｔｅ　－　Ｉ‘ｖｅ　ｂｅｅｎ　ｇｏｎｅ　ｎｅａｒｌｙ　６　ｗｅｅｋｓ　－　ｔｈｅｒｅ‘ｓ　ａｎｏｔｈｅｒ　ｇｕｙ　ｈｅｒｅ　
ｗｈｏ　ｈａｓ　ｂｅｅｎ　ａｗａｙ　９　ｍｏｎｔｈｓ．　　Ｉ‘ｍ　　ａ　ｎｏｖｉｃｅ．


Ｌｏｎｇ　ｄａｙ　ｏｆ　ｔｒａｖｅｌｌｉｎｇ　ｔｏｍｏｒｒｏｗ．　　Ａｎｄ　Ｉ　ｓｔｉｌｌ　ｈａｖｅｎｔ　ｇｏｔ　ｍｙ　ｈｅａｄ　ａｒｏｕｎｄ　
ｉｔ．　　Ｉ　ｗｉｌｌ　ｌｅａｖｅ　ａｔ　ａｂｏｕｔ　１１３０ａｍ　ｔｏ　ｃａｔｃｈ　ｔｈｅ　１５１５　ｆｌｉｇｈｔ　ｔｏ　Ｂｅｉｊｉｎｇ，　ｔｈｅｎ　ｔｏ　ｇｅｔ　ｔｈｅ　ｆｌｉｇｈｔ　ｔｏ　ＬＡＸ　ｔｈａｔ　ｌａｎｄｓ　ａｔ　１８１５ｐｍ．　Ｗｅｉｒｄ．　Ａｌｌ　Ｉ ｋｎｏｗ　ｉｓ　Ｉ　ａｍ　ｇｏｎｎａ　ｂｅ　ｋｎａｃｋｅｒｅｄ．　　Ｇｅｔｔｉｎｇ　ｆｅｄ　ｔｗｉｃｅ　ｔｈｏｕｇｈ．

Kyoto

Three days in Kyoto is not enough.  There are 1600 temples and 400 shrines to see - I havent quite done them all....  but the few I have been to have been super... and very orange.  They are literally everywhere, walk down a street and there are temples that have been converted to homes. I have wandered around, and got myself lost (of course)   Hidden away behind the street are giant temple complexes.  It must have been amazing 200 years ago, it is wonderful.
Yesterday I went to the Imperial Palace (had to get a special invite), it was so unlike the Beijing experience.  In Beijing there were a million people in the Forbidden City, in Kyoto there were 40 of us on a personal English guided tour.  And it cost nothing.  The Imperial Palace site and surrounding parkland are not regarded as a favourite tourist attraction here.

My guest house, IchiEnSue is just like being a guest in someones home; it is sweet.  Its situated in the gion district and there are lots of ladies wearing beautiful kimonos around.  And Ive seen two geisha girls (in the street, that is).
Now I am leaving tomorrow I have just about cracked the transport; the bus system (400Y for a day pass 2.70) is excellent.  The metro is complicated, like the rail, different sections are owned by different companies.

This evening 8 of us went out for a beer. We ended up sitting on the bank of the river with a bottle looking at the lights and talking, near to us a Japanese boy band set up and sung some Beatles songs... so surreal.  I just had to go over to them when they were finished and ask why the Beatles..

I did all my washing last night.  All my socks, underwear, shirts in a local launderette.  Took my carrier bag full and a book with me. 800Y (5.00) for 50 minutes.  Was easy to operate, the instructions were in English, chucked the whole lot in, book and all.  Oops! 

Japanese Bullet Train

The Japanese bullet train.  Conjures up thoughts of impressive timekeeping, and modern technology at it`s zenith. The Best train in the world.      Or so they say.
But what they do not say is that it has 16 carriages.  13 for first class and pre-reserved seats...and 3 cattle trucks.

I arrived in Shimonseki this morning and was given the choice of a 12 hours journey to Kyoto and 5 changes on local trains for 7000K or 3 hours with no changes on the Shinkasen for 13980Y.
I bit for the bullet.
It looked magnificent.  Like Concorde on rails. On the outside. But nothing special on the inside where I was. The first 13 carriages were two thirds full.
Unreserved were carriages 1,2,3  at the back and they were packed.  I had to stand all the way.

I need a good nights sleep.
Last night on the Pukwan ferry was uncomfortable. There was no entertainment like the Helsinki ferry, no bars, no shops. The boat was a lot smaller.  On deck was very, very dark and eerie, like the darkness was trying to suck you overboard.  I was in a large berth with no furniture and 16 guys very formally sleeping on mats (Japanese style) on the floor and the boat swaying, yawing, and dipping.  Awful.  I listened to my mp3 for 3 hours lying down trying to sleep.

The night before at City House in noisy Busan a group of 10 of us played drinking games with the local firewater til 230am.  Was such fun.  Lovely people.  But, oh my head the next morning. Did I say never again before??

And now in Kyoto.  So colourful and exciting.  Have seen young ladies walking down the street in kimonos.  Have had my first delicious suchi.  Nothing like the Tesco version, this was good!  Have seen a Zen monastery already, beautiful. 
But it got dark here before 7pm... good job I chose the Shinkasen this morning... arriving in Kyoto in the dark would have been so hard.

Have slept with 5 American girls in two days

Well, I didn't know Haeundae was the Ayia Napa of Korea.  I knew my hotel was near a beach... but resort? The everywhere-music did not stop til gone 5am again this morning; its mid-season and Haeundae throngs with Korean 20somethings away for a few days to get laid and wasted.  Oops!!  But where does that leave me?
I'm in a mixed 6-bed dorm.  Friday was ok. But the guesthouse was full on Sat and Sun and they put 5 American young ladies in with me.  Oh dear. 
Yeah right!!  I felt very uncomfortable and I could hear mutterings and see glances coming my way. Ho hum!
I did what I was doing on the computer with the females gossipping together in the large lounge behind me, I just wandered over - didn't introduce myself or say a big hi! I'm your roomy or anything naff... just joined in the conversation.  An hour later we had finished a bottle of vodka (did I say never again?) and they went out clubbing promising to be like mice when they got in.  It was really no prob.. a bit uncomfortable, a bit embarassing and quite funny, but no prob.  Of course, I was the perfect English gentleman.
They are gone now. They are all English teachers working in Seoul away for a few days.  And, so,  I have guys with me again - bet they snore!!!

Went to the Korean version of the great wall yesterday, Geumjeonsanseong Fortress, climbed to 1500' (phew! so hot!) and saw the most amazing view of Busan.
Today I went on a boat trip around the bay overlooking Busan.

I have been to the port and confirmed my berth to Japan tomorrow.  Ah so!
That probably makes me half way on my journey now, so in a way I feel that I am heading home.  Once in Japan I will have travelled 10,000K.
I've still got free internet so I'll prob put some photos on, I took a wonderful nightime one half an hour ago from Dongbaek Park.

Korea smells

There is  a definite smell occassionally.  It was the same in Seoul. You get a whiff walking down the street; it's a similar smell you get if theyve been spraying pig manure on the fields; or something has gone off in the fridge. Not nice. A metallic, sharp, fetid pong. It's probably a mixture of the heat, it's over 30degrees at 9am, the garbage, or the street food that is everywhere.  Or perhaps it's me.

I still find it surprising that I'm the only European around.  Have today had three long journeys on the Metro; I changed twice on the way to Beomulsa temple, then went to the ferry terminal and then back to Haeundae. Saw no other Europeans at all.

Beomulsa temple today.  Serene is the only word.  I sat and listened to buddhist chanting for an hour or so.  Very calm. Very beautiful.

Korean public transport.  Cannot fault it.  all the buses, metro and trains are air con'd. I bought an all day pass for 2.50... a single bus or metro ride costs only 70p for anywhere in Busan.

Snacks.  Want to get my appetite back. Mmm cheese and pickle on toast!!
Now... I don't expect branston so I'll happily settle for tomato and cheese on toast.
Bread:  could only get all plastic and long life rubbery version (Korean). Cheese:  Koreans do not eat cheese.  Only goats cheese; managed to get some dairlyea slices from the very back of the fridge. Tomatoes: No real ripe, red tomatoes, had to settle for giant green-just-about-to-go-red one.  Cheese and tomato on toast.... but it was delicious!!  (Microwaved... there's no grill)

And back to tea.  I WANT TEA!!!  Bought some lemon tea bags today in giant supermarket... mmm nice.
Not PG but nice.  Not.  They turned out to be wheat tea.  Tastes just like shredded wheat.  Ug!

Seoul 11/8

There are big differences between Seoul people and Beijing people.

They are much more polite, all deep nods and smiles.  Twice on the bus this afternoon on the way back to City Guest House people gestured and asked if I wanted to sit down.  So polite. Give your seat to the elderley.  I just said Gamsa Hamnida and shook my head.  (Yet another thankyou learned)
They don't fight for seats on the underground either; in Beijing it was all an arms and elbows battle as soon as the doors opened, here it's wait til everybody gets off and patiently and gently get on.  Nice.

Toilets.  I'm English.  Toilets are important. Toilets in Beijing are scarce and nasty.  Here in Seoul they are everywhere (especially in museums) and incredibly clean.  No charge either.

I am reminded how foreign this all is.  And how foreign I am.  Went into Holly's Cafe (it's a chain) this afternoon for tea.  The young lady waitress looked blank at me.  Tea.. Chay.. Chai..  Still blank.  Cappacino? Americano?  No... chai, tea, chay...  we spent a couple of minutes stuttering, nodding, smiling and looking blankly at each other until I saw a menu and had to point.  All they had was roibos.  Even in the supermarkets all I can get is green, jasmine or honey.  Oh for a packet of  PG!!

Changing my plans tomorrow.  Am bottling the templestay and going straight to Busan.  Dont fancy 5am start and have the rumbleguts.. (am on stoppers)  Ooh er!!!

Beijing - 8/8/11

What an amazing three days in Beijing. Is the biggest, most impressive city I have ever seen, and so many people!!  We managed to fit tons of stuff in... went to a kung fu exhibition in a theatre on Friday, then last night went to see an acrobatics and juggling show.  Absolutely amazing: started with a guy standing on top of eight stacked wooden chairs and doing one hand handstands; almost touching the ceiling of the theatre. Extraordinary.

Went in to the Forbidden City. Four hours of walking around in 90+ heat, and totally amazed by the Emperors Garden. Awesome.  Then went on to Tangshan Park where I could view the whole of the FC and big groups of random people were singing random opera acapella...  imagine that happening in Hyde Park...  Then got totally lost.  Thats not unusual for me though, happened three times to me whilst I was in Beijing!! So complicated trying to read street names. Exhausting.

Went to see the Birds Nest.  Went and walked a couple of k along the great wall.. which was exactly as I had expected.. but what I did not expect was the chair lift up to it and the toboggan ride down. Truly!

Had a chinese food banquet meal with the whole group (wonderful mix of 9 foreigners) and had two very dodgy meals in local restaurants.  And survived.

So, here I am now in Seoul.  And have free computer in City Guest House. Have just discovered I have taken 700 photos so far... oops!!   It's 1045pm; got dark at 8pm and that is noon with you. Am around the other side of the world.  Now there's a thing.

Bogeys and a culture shock - 4/8/11

We went through border control late last night; which wasn't as bad as the Russian/Mongolian experience... this time it only took 4 hours. But. The railway track in China is narrower than the track in Mongolia.  So the whole train, each of the 10 carriages had to be individually pneumatically jacked up (with us in it) 10 feet in the air to have the bogeys changed.  Fascinating stuff. At 12.30 in the morning.

Beijing is such a culture shock.  I have not known anything like it.  So modern, Gucci, Luis Verron, Burberry shops, so hectic, everywhere so randomly noisy, incredible tall hotels with pagodas on the top - and a haze hanging in the air that blocks out most of the sun.  I went wandering this afternoon, as I do. Alone. As I do.  Got totally lost, as I do. Came across a whole street of roadside hot food vendors... still wriggling mini octopus on kebab sticks, crayfish, lots of dodgy looking meat kebabs and lots of dodgy looking sweeet things.  The smell was overpowering, but wonderful.  Watched a street brawl.  Eventually came out at the Forbidden City. Just wow!! Then came out in Tianamen Square underneath the iconic Chairman Mao picture. Amazing!  Seemed like a million peope just milling about. And two absolutely enormous  LCD screens on the opposite side showing random pictures including desert island and palm trees.  Oh my!  What?

Went to see a Kung Fu exhibition this evening.  And then three of us had dinner down a hutong.  Choose your own meat, vegetables and noodles and it's cooked in front of you and served in a plastic bag in a bowl.  Tasted just like a chinese curry. And no forks just chopsticks.  Culture shock!!!

Going to the Great Wall tomorrow ... OMG!!!


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Note from Mike - Blogger.com is not allowed in China (the infamous firewall) - so have pasted this on Phileas's behalf!!

Ulanbatoor

What a contrast!!
When we started our 6000k train journey from Moscow for the first two days all we could see out of the carriage window was trees - when we awoke this morning in Northern Mongolia all we could see was grass plains and mountains.. over the past few days the view has changed drastically.  Now there are no trees at all.

Am now in Ulanbatoor in Mongolia.
The town centre is dominated by Sukhbatoor Square and the very impressive parliament building, the giant mayor's office and the Blue Sky wind-sail-shape skyscraper (that is empty apparently).  They all look magnificent.
This morning we visited two traditional homes in the yellow-rocks ger district no more than half a mile from the town centre.  They had no running water (a communal well only) no sewage (just toilet pits) yet the folks were so friendly and so proud of their Mongolia and their Ghengis Khan heritage.

We all went gift shopping in the National Department Store and then I walked back alone through the centre to the San Hotel alone.  No probs.  Dodgy people and pickpockets everywhere we are warned.  And crossing the street is easy, just go!! jaywalk amongst the dust, the noise and the manic traffic.  No probs.

We are sleeping overnight tomorrow in a ger tent.and going to a culture show.. and then back (erk!) onto the train to Beijing.
Would love Heinz baked beans on toast with brown sauce!!!  or pork pie, pickle and chips!! Mmmmmmmmm

Little Blue Cup on a long train journey making friends

I am such a happy little blue cup. Am grubby and well used, coffee, tea, beer.  I love the bumpity-bump-sway of the train. And my four Russian friends are such fun.  Even if I can't understand a word they clink.

Lake Baikal

Had a super 2 hour boat trip on the very southern part of Lake Baikal this morning - total blue skies. With wonderful mountains in the distance.  Had lunch and a wander around a local market at Baikal Town and then saw at least four wedding celebrations. Each bride was in big white and each groom was in a shiny silver/grey polyester suit like those we wore 40 years ago. Each wedding group had a buffet meal served on the bonnet of their car in the car park opposite the main hotel, with dancing in the car park to music from the car.  All very liberating and open. And unusual.

Back at the chalet/hotel this evening we have had a Russian sauna; ladies first then the guys, very steamy, very hot... five guys bashing themselves off with branches of birch leaves. Phew!

Back on the train tomorrow...

Trans Siberian times - 27th July

The train I am travelling on has just passed the 4500km mark, this stage of my journey is Moscow to Irkutsk; we reach Irkutsk tomorrow morning. The train (and therefore us) runs on Moscow time. Which is confusing. Got up at 8am this morning (your time 5am, local time 1pm.  As soon as we reach Irkutsk and we get off the train we will go onto local time. We have to get up at 3am (my time) or 8am (new time) and your time in England midnight.  It's getting dark now, my time is 6pm; it'll be totally dark at 6.30pm.... that's midnight.  Or 4pm for you... I think!!
We are not eating in the dining car (it's a bit expensive) and have bought stores from a local  MYNMARKT: starters fried squid flavoured crisps; main course POVVTOH KYPUHAR MaMWA (very salty herby type pot noodle) and  MAXAPNIIIH cakes for afters (fairy cakes with strawberry jam and cream in the middle)
I bought potato dumplings from a baboushka yesterday. Imagine a jam doughnut filled with mashed potato and no jam and no sugar. Delicious!!!  Not.  Yuk!!

Am fine; really feeling a long way from home now. Have had four and a half continuous days on the train, be so pleased to walk on steady land tomorrow.

Got locked in the Kremlin today for three hours!!

I came to Russia with preconceptions that had evolved over the years, even though I had heard there had been big changes; I still expected austerity and stoicness, a communist presence and a population that is disheartened and controlled. I expected Red Square and the Kremlin a military building to be heavily guarded and generally closed to the public.
I expected to be aware of KGB agents watching and suspicious military police everywhere.
All wrong!!!   In fact there is no communism here any more, the public happily enjoy capitalism and a free economy.  One whole side of Red Square is GUM which is the most exclusive, enormous chic designer clothes and goods shops imaginable. Think Harrods.



And of course, the Kremlin is a wonderful tourist attraction. It has a palace (being refurbished) a theatre, gardens, walks and a museum and three wonderful Russian Orthodox cathedrals to wonder at. It took us well over two hours to be guided round it all.
The Kremlin is surrounded by a high red brick wall, and yes, we had to go through security to get into it. And there are lots of soldiers about but it's more like the presence at Buck Pal.
And I am beginning to understand.



St Basils is a Russian Orthodox cathedral in Red Square and is the most beautiful I have ever seen.

Went to see Comrade Lenin too.  He is dressed in his best suit and looks good enough to get up and walk away.

I am on the train to Irkutsk for over 3 days now, next stop Lake Baikal, then Mongolia.

Resisting the temptations of baboushka - 21st July

A baboushka is traditionally the doll within a doll within a doll that everybody that comes to Russia buys. I could have come away with the real thing tonight.  A baboushka is also a matronly grandmother.

We have arrived in Suzdal which is only two hours from Moscow and is a small town with a deep history, a dozen beautiful churches and a monastery and a convent. I had my second moment of the holidays listening to four monks dressed in black suits (not black robes) singing a chant. So soaringly beautiful amongst the 600 year old frescoes that talked of hundreds of years of devotion it moved me to tears.

We had breakfast at a local house, traditional cheese bakes with wild strawberry or cherry jam and ham and cheese on bread.  Enjoyed so much we chose to come back this evening and join Linya for dinner.  Garlic cheese compote in tomato with a Russian-style coleslaw and green leaves; borsch soup and chicken/rice breasts with mashed potato.  All very Russian, all cooked by Linya. 
Each course preceded and followed by a vodka toast (they don't say nostrovia) to health and happiness or to people. Then we partied, with Russian music from a DVD playing in a TV.  Linya took a shine to me; much to my horror and much to the hilarity of the rest of the group.  She speaks not a word of English.  We danced.. and I played along.  We drank more vodka, and I had to help Andrew drink his too, he doesn't drink much.  Sweating profusely with a thunderstorm and rain outside, we all danced and laughed. Such ribald fun. And Linya kept making a bee-line for me.  We must have consumed six medium bottles of vodka between the 11 of us. And we laughed so much. Linya invited me to her sauna down the bottom of the garden (I said nyet) she pushed my nose down between her ample, sweating bosom (several times) and the whole group cracked up... and took lots of photos. I just went shy.

A RTW Strongie experience not to be forgotten.
And now back in the hotel, single room spinning.  Hot fragrant tea, pint of water..
Bring on Moscow!!

Art treasures and history

2 days, 2 Cathedrals, 2 museums, 2 Palaces. Yeah!!  Enough!!
But both of those Palaces belonged to Csar Nicholas. And one of the museum's was maybe the best in the world.  The Hermitage. 
I judge that solely on the two rooms of Gaugin and Picasso each. 3 rooms of Matisse (with several very recognisable ones) and one room of Monet (that's 8 paintings)
After 2 hours I was ready to give in and had to admit defeat by asking a little Russian lady selling souvenirs if she spoke English "a liddle" and then ask where the French Impressionists were. And it was in a whole undiscovered floor of 19th and 20thC European art. Wonderful!
Weary, just about to go and I literally stopped in my tracks and stepped back half a dozen paces.. a whole three rooms of Henry Moore!  I give in!!

Now back at the hotel, pot of tea... cake aaah!

We are going out late tonight and meet at 1230am for an hour's boat trip. It will not be completely dark and hopefully a lot cooler.  It is up in the mid 30's here.

Tomorrow on the train to Suzdal and then on to Moscow. More treasure.

BTW asked the tour leader (she is Russian) on the bus this evening about HP.  She said 'Potter.. he is more popular than Putin!
Apparently everyone reads HP but the film is not realeased yet...

Culture shock and foot shock

I have wandered around St Petersburg today for 7 hours; with an hours break back at my 3000 ruble a night (ouch) hotel for black tea and a shower.
Amazing! Amazing! Everywhere I look there is awesome architecture. Nevsky Prospekt is a miles long wide avenue and I've been up and down it, and keep looking up, nearly got run over once.
I've been in Kazan Cathedral and the 'Church of the Saviour on the Blood' which is a Russian Orthodox and has wall to ceiling mosaics the most colourful I have ever seen. Fantastic.

It's all so different here. Hardly anybody speaks English. Even the Church had about 6 guides and none of them spoke English, I seemed to be the only English person on the ferry last night.  Everywhere there is English up-to-date pop music and rap; everywhere there are people wearing English and US designer labels but hardly anybody in the streets speaks English. Even the vendor selling souvenirs asked me if I wanted the beautiful faberge-type mini-egg for my knickerless lady.. "why you smile?".. so I then had to embarassingly explain necklace..

I struggle eating alone in restaurant and admit I would rather go without; but I did eventually go in Macdonalds... but it was packed so I went into a Subway and had a put-everything-in-it sub and a Danish pastry - all with pointing and lots of 'da's'
Thank you is saseba  - but I keep forgetting and want to say placebo.
Tomorrow we all go out for our first meal and I can't wait to try the meat soup with dumplings.
But hooray!! No Harry Potter... Helsinki had it on every billboard.
I'm three hours ahead of you now, that means when I get up tomorrow at 730 it'll be 430 in England.

The water is dodgy. The river Neva is badly polluted and literally stinks. Apparently if I'm not careful withthe tap water I could get giardia lamblia... and I dont want that! But come to think of it - I had salad in my subway... oops!

Tar in your tea

When I was out yesterday wandering the explore in Helsinki City I heard an explosion. A deep rumbling roar that could only have been an awful event or mining. I found out what it was today. It was underneath the Finnish parliament building.
Yesterday it was blue skies; today it has rained all day and a rainy day is a museum day. National Museum of Finland for about 3 hours and a museum on life at sea. And a guided tour of the Finnish Parliament. But this is no Westminster.  Finland has only been a democracy since 1917 and the Parliament building is relatively new and is all art deco with marble floors and stairs and tubular steel furniture, even in the Commons.  They have PR here - England beware! Their current stystem has 8 main parties and the government is made up of a coalition of 6 of them. How on earth do they get any business done? And the government bureaucracy is growing too, hence the need for more space, hence the mining and explosion.
I love tea...  EG me.
Finnish tea is weird. A mixture of black tea, lemon and tar. And it tastes like it. And says it on the packets.  Apparently they use tar in several foodstuffs.  There is even a tar licquer...
Big ship to Russia tomorrow.  Gulp!!
I wonder if Russian tea has vodka flavours...

http://maps.google.co.uk/?ie=UTF8&ll=60.182502,25.548706&spn=1.332992,3.521118&z=8

Helsinki

Wonderful flight. As it was getting dark flying over the many little islands on the Finnish coast I wrote: ' like a million shards of black glass scattered over a darkened grey mirror'

We flew into Helsinki at 1145pm and watched the sun set and at 300mph it sets quickly.  Took me an hour to get me baggage, board the Finnair bus and get off at 'Oopera' (opera house) and walk to the hostel.  By the time I was putting me bags in the room it was getting light again.
The hostel is in the olympic stadium built in 1952 ( yeah, so its getting a major renovation and perhaps I should as well, we are the same age) and famous for Pavlo Nurmi who was a Finnish gold medallist then.

Clever cows

You won't believe this.  But on the Orknies cows are more intelligent than those in Letchworth and England.
Walking along country lanes here and they are fascinated by you. Watch you fervently.  Come over to say hello.  Whole herds make a beeline to get as close to you as possible; as if they want a moo-chat.
Which is fine.
The other day I was walking a cliff path, looking for puffins.  Sheer 200foot cliffs as close as 2 metres on my left.  And flimsy 3-strand barbed wire fence immediately on my right. And a herd of cows. Excited; frisky; interested in me.
"Go away!"
Moo! (jump up and down, kicking)
"Shoo!"
Moo! (mount each other)
Scary.

Free love and peace man

I visited a commune today.  Have always quite fancied the idea of escaping modern day life for something more back-to-nature.. getting in touch with the inner self.  Yeah! Peace man! Three wives; free love... that sort of thing...  expected lots of hippy beads and laid-back attitude.
But what I found was the Findhorn Community. Wonderful. Designated working roles for all, lots of old fashioned village-life spirit; self financing (they run the caravan park profitably next door); self governed and lots of new age thinking and spiritual aspirations; and very ecologically driven.  Own wind turbines; grass roofs; own sewage treatment works; grow all their own vegetables and they welcome thousands of paying visitors to stay for weeks at a time each year.
Found it fascinating.  And if I had found it 30 years ago I might have been interested.
But why does it have to be 500 miles from home?
Anybody fancy starting one in Norton?

Pissport

Well. I never expected to be doing a blog tonight.
Have had a wonderful three days in Weymouth (not alone) we went to sub tropical gardens in Abbotsbury, got to know some some real life pirates, (well actors doing a smugglers walking tour...) and went to Chesil beach... all absolutely fab.  And am home with just enough  time to get hot bath, and check all is well for my 930am flight tomorrow to Inverness where I then go on to Orknies and Shetlands. Just so much fun.
Until I suddenly, with open mouth realised my passport is still at the Mongolian Embassy in London. Which will not be open again til 10am Monday.
Does not bode well for a Phileas-type-round-the-world-organising-by-myself traveller.
Oops!

RTW Strongie meets another interesting nutter

Over an early morning coffee I got to talking with my roomy. From Northern Ireland; he is a constable in the Royal Ulster and served in Kosovo; very broad accent. We discovered that we were both heading to Portsmouth today.
"Sure, if you want a lift yr welcome to get on the back of me bike"
Yeah... think... suitcases...
"Oh, sure it'll be fine"
His bike was a 650cc Korean/Japanese monster. I must be mad.
Straddled precariously behind him; gripping on to a side thing with my left hand, a death grip on my bag over my shoulder, trying my hardest not to lean back on the strapped-on suitcases.
"Sure, they'll be fine like that". He was mad.
With my eyes glued to the speedo and my knees seizing up gripped to the saddle.
Such a thrill. Ish.
Especially when he opened the throttle.. 65mph...70mph... we even touched 88mph - hah! A breeze! The worst part was after roundabouts and the g force that tried to send me into the suitcases and off the back.
Terrified. Exhausted. After 30 minutes with his sat nav taking me to Esk Vale hotel in Portsmouth just after 10am and I couldnt get off the bike. My legs and knees had frozen.
Fantastic though. But never again.

Durham City

Durham is such a wonderful city. My friends had a penthouse flat overlooking the river.

And I was welcomed into their house as a stranger to one and a friend to another.

Constantly coffee’d and tea’d, wined and fine dined.

What a wonderful whirlwind five days of beaches, castles, waterfalls, museums, churches and ancient buildings that culminated on a final evening with two hours of jamming (guitar and voice) and three hours of clubbing.

Breathless.  Intoxicating.

Life as it should be: drinking from a pail and not a cup.

Given it back

It is said that one of the most wonderful things about being a grandparent is that you can give the children back. It is a joy, with both sons settled, in relationships and mortgaged, that I can look forward to…

It could also apply to gardens.

I have had a greenhouse, an allotment, gardens wherever I have lived, even been a  member of a gardeners society. Now I do not even have a window box.

I have just spent five days in Suffolk with recently married and honeymooned Paul and Soph. And I went to help do their neglected garden.  I have dug, tidied, replanted, weeded and sowed.

I have had aches and blisters, and have toiled and sweated honestly.

But.

It is not mine.  I do not have to constantly upkeep it and water it.

I have given the garden back.

Nearly robbed?

Thought I was gonna get robbed and beaten up today.

Caught the train to Paldiski, a little port 20 miles west along the coast from Tallinn. Lots of greenery on the map and presumably some promising coastal walks.

Big wrong!!

Blocks and blocks of dirty Russian-built tenements.

No shopping centre; no pretty streets; no nothing.

Plenty of atmosphere.  All the wrong type.

I walked along from the station, all on my left was a container port and loading docks.. behind walls and razor wire.

I ended up walking over waste land to nowhere.

Past broken sheds and what might have been abandoned garages, dumped furniture here, rubbish there... hoped to find a walk – or a way out... looked behind me and there was a guy just standing looking my way... then two more... then they started coming my way across the waste land.

Now – I didnt leg it like a startled rabbit... but, lets just say I quickened my pace a little.

Of course, making my way back to the streets I got hopelessly lost, but I felt relatively safe again and eventually found the railway station.

Bet you cant find Paldiski on google Earth.

Home tomorrow!!  Yippee!!
Cant wait for a hot bath and a clean change of clothes
Not that I smell... much...

Little blue cup got lost!!

Poor little blue cup got lost!

Not in my room.

Not in my bag.

Lost.

I left him in the dining room for a day and a night, and someone tidied him up.

But back now!

Phew!

But. He didnt like his first time in a dishwasher.

But boy, is he clean.

Tallinn update

I´ve found some green grass!

Because the winters are so severe, regularly 20 degrees below, it takes the grass longer to recover after winter. The grass everywhere  is still dead and yellow.

Apart from that growing in a 6” bowl on the dining room table here at the Old House hostel.. It´s verdant and 4” high. Apparently it is an Estonian Easter thing.

Went to a beautiful big Russian orthodox church yesterday. I love the domes and the bright colours.  Inside was hazy with incense, the alter screen a bright mass of gold.  The priests were giving absolution to queues of worshippers and there was a deep, gentle, solemn chanting in the background. Magical.

Until I looked a few yards away to my right. There was an open coffin with a deceased old lady lying shrouded in white lace.

Apparently both funerals and weddings are conducted quite openly in these churches.

Today caught the bus to Pirita. Pah! Public transport conquered easily.  When I eventually did find the underground bus station...

Pirita is 6k along the coast and a beach resort. For me it rivalled anything I have ever seen before. Really!

On a cool sunny, April day, walking along a clean, dry sandy beach.  To see the old town of Tallinn in the distance across the bay in the Gulf of Finland.

And there were no waves.

And the sea was still frozen.  Amazing.

Tallinn

So, now in Tallinn.  And the hostel, well... still nothing to compare with AF Chapman and there are definitely some strange people here.  Grunts instead of hello; it could be a language thing.  It could be I`ve grown another head..
Tallinn is very pretty, very much like Dubrovnik with town wall and red roofs.
Thankyou here is tan an.... in Riga it was paldies... and already I cannot remember what it was in Stockholm.
Will wander aimlessly round the town tomorrow for eight hours or so and see how much more culture I can take then I`m heading for the countryside.
Then will be thinking about coming home... the countryside is so grey here... the grass has not grown at all yet and is very dead.  Not a sign of green.  Very strange.
Itś one thing that strikes you when you´ve been away... how green England is.

Down Town Riga

  In DTR there is a little bridge over a little lake in a liitle park that is covered in handcuffs.  It is a local tradition for married couples to be photographed there... and leave their emblem of bonding.
  In DTR there is a Russian Orthodox Church that is the bright and colourful church I have ever seen.. think St Marks in Moscow.
  In DTR there is a medieval underground restaurant lit only by candlelight and served by costumed waiters that serves medieval food from wooden plates. I recommend the grit pie.
  In DTR there is a market that is in four aircraft hangers.  Markets for meat, fish, cheese and fruit and veg.  And clothes and nic nacs.I spent two hours there, wandering and buying bits and pieces... me.. two hours shopping!!
  In DTR you can buy this licquer that tastes like venos with vodka.  They call it balsamic wine. I do not recommend it.  But apparently it is a cure all.
  But out of DTR; wander a bit away from the medieval buildings and pretty streets and it is bleak, dark and Russian.  A bit of a contrast.
Fascinating.
On me way tomorrow to Tallinn.  A four and a half hour coach ride; and I wont be sorrow to go.

Tsarevich

Well, this is the first time I've used a cirillac keyboard..
So, welcome to Latvia.  The coach to the airport in Stockholm cost me 12 pounds... the bus to the centre of Riga cost me one euro.  And I think that's some difference.
The bus brought me through the Russian area; block after block of towers living quarters.. high rise blocks, low rise blocks... OMG,  I wondered what I had let myself in for.
The part of Riga where FuntimeFrankie's Hostel is is the old town and that is ok.
Have signed up for a free walking tour tomorrow to get my bearings... then I'm going to a Russian firing range where I'm gonna let loose with an AK47.
Just another day.
Am rooming with two young ladies from Spain and Canada and a Spanish guy.
Am fine.  Stockholm was wonderful, loved it.  Need to go back when its just a bit colder...
Have had two local beers... maybe time for another...

Sex

I'm not narrow minded, nor easily shocked.
Last night was culture night here in Stockholm and a lot of the museums were free for a few hours.  Got my money's worth. Went to the National Museum jsut cos it was there. And was so thrilled at the galleries. Saw 3 Renoir, 2 Breughel, a Van Gogh and even a new Claude Monet - superb.
But.
There was an exhibition called Lust and Last.. it was all about the effects of eroticism on the everyday female place in the world. 
Now this is Sweden, and they have a reputation for being open minded, sexually open minded.Well! There were  pictures of naked women everywhere, and because the museum was free it was packed.. mostly with women... a whole section of prostitution.. but three particular exhibits got to me.. so embarassed.  One was a montage, a headless business man sitting at a desk surrounded by clutter with  a dozen naked female torsos suspended above him.. with exaggerated and hairy private parts.. I didnt know where to look.. well, I knew where to look--- just couldn't...
the second one was a film (presumably on a loop or she would have got very tired and sore) of a woman lying down in a forest glade, completely naked and well... it begins with m and its a word I can't say...
the third was a picture of a woman bending over backwards and dressed in bondage and looking into a mirror.. here we were asked who was watching who - trust me, I wasnt watching. I did not spend long at this exhibition, it was just too much for me.
Are the Swedish obsessed with sex? No.  But they are not afraid of it either.

My favourite colour

My favourite colour is blue. Of Course. And as I sit here on this hill, on this island full of EG my cup runneth over, so to speak. The sky is blue, right from edge to edge. The sea is blue, and theres a lot of it. Cos we're on a little island.  Only the trees all around us are green.   Green's not too bad.
I've been on a boat!!  Thats planes and trains and boats - I want to go on a submarine next!!!

Changing the guard at the Palace

The crowd was 5/6 deep, cameras held high above the heads, people on tiptoes or standing on pillar bases to get a better view as the marching band and the soldiers marched past; changing the guard at the Palace always attracts the tourists.
Some of the state apartments are open to the public and I paid my bit to go in and have a look, giant chandaliers, beautiful furnishings.. all very regal.
But we are not talking Christopher Robin and Alice here...
Ande King Carl XV1 is on the throne and this is  Kunlinga Slottet. The Royal Palace in Sweden.
Stockholm is beautiful; the weather very changeable; they say four seasons in one day and that is about right.
There is a special evening today when there is so much going on for free.. right up my street.. or along the canal... so to speak.

On board my yacht

Sorry...didnt you know I was on a yacht next?
Train journey from Copenhagen to Stockholm was interesting... I stayed in the dog cabin.  Bit smelly but fun nevertheless.  4 and a half hours journey past fjords and frozen lakes... YES.. frozen.  There's still quite a bit of snow laying here too.  Cant wait to go for a hike and see what it's like in the trees.. and boy, there's a lot of trees here.
It's howling a gale, I've been on deck to take some photos and nearly got blown overboard.
Am off back into centrum to check out food and what fun things to do tomorrow.
And yes, have already sussed a hot water source for constant  EG for my flask.
MY,W.

Roskilde

Took train to Roskilde today.  Travelling in a foreign country is so strange. He sold me a two zone card and told me to punch it four times in the yellow machine... what?  And are some of the seats reserved? There are some displays in Danish that suggest so... And of course, was the train going in the right direction?..
Roskilde Cathedral was wonderful.  All the Danish Kings and Queens are laid to rest there... I say laid to rest.. they are in ornate coffins displayed on plinths.. and the medieval frescos all over the walls were amazing.
Went for a hike along a cycle track (did 13k)..pah! too easy! Turned wrong deliberately and ended up lost in a Danish forest.. that's more like it... not that I could get lost with the cathedral spires visible for miles... but walking along the side of the road to town with the traffic coming in the wrong direction was interesting.

Went for a walk in Kobenhven yesterday evening before it got dark, aiming for the Kings Gardens... turned left through gates when all of a sudden was confronted by a soldier out of his guardbox blocking my way and looking menacing with his AK47.. "Halt!"
"Sorry... am I not allowed in here.."
"Do you have a military permit?
"Well no..."
"Then please stand outside the gate!"
How was I to know this was the entrance to Roserberg Castle where the Danish crown jewels are kept....

Little blue cup

Now feeling a cup such a long way from home. OK. So I'm getting my quota of earl grey.. which is my raison d'etre (well-travelled me is getting the hang of foreign languages).  But I'm feeling a bit cupboard sick. And sometimes wish I was back home with Whatever, Teddy Bears, MooCow and the Wickes Brothers.

First flight

So much for my first ever flight!
Supposed to be exciting, adventurous, exotic even.
I spent it in an overhead locker, stuffed inside a bag, stuffed inside a smelly old trainer!
Pah!!

Yeah right!! So I turned up, eventually, after getting totally lost in Copenhagen, at 630pm and beginning to become dusk, at my sleepinheaven hostel.  Only to be told I was too old to stay there. Cheers guys!! Heaven is only for the young.  Apparently the hostel was 18 - 35.  Now, there was no hesitation in the guy behind the counter.. didnt question my age.  He gave me a refund and an address and directions to an OLDER persons hostel about 15 minutes walk away.
12 room dorm and only me and a guy with an Aussie accent.
Slept fitfully.  Just like and old person.
Headache and tired. Just like an old person.
But.  Hey!!  It's a new morning now, the sun is shining. And there is a two and a half hour boat trip waiting for me around the canals... if only I can find Nyhavn boat port... its not far according to my map.
But I did not pack any Phylossan (fortifies the over forties). Ho hum.

ROW Strongie. And the beginning.

So.  2010 was a wonderful year.
I managed to sell my house and give the money away.  Yeah... good causes!!!
But. No fool me. I decided the endowment mortgage policy that I had paid into to for so many years was to be mine. And its worth 30K. And I have saved over 20K.
So I can retire.  Well, for a few years.  And I can go on holiday.  But, me being me and me being  a writer and not a fighter means that I will need to share my experiences with someone.  This is where this site comes in… and hopefully I can make you laugh.
I have booked my PhileasStrongie through to Beijing. Flights paid; hostels booked; deposits depsoited…deposotied… paid. But hey, it gets complicated here... cos I get as far as the Baltic and come back... then wander around the UK for a few months and go back to where I was in the Baltic and then carry on and dont stop til I go all the way round... maybe... inshallah health.
And my aim is to walk 1000k.  Not all the way of course.. but my pedometer is set from so many walks into town and seems to be accurate...
I gotta get visas; I gotta get insurance; I gotta get the logistics of getting from Tallinn to St Petersburg and then on to a hotel somewhere in a city that is about as foreign and strange as it can be…
So pleased to have said sod off to Corals. Given up as much responsiblity as possible and.. well the rest is just another blog.